Most window frames are made by wood, and in the long run, wood can get rotten with constant exposure to moisture and other environmental factors. If a frame to one of your windows is damaged, the easiest way to deal with it is by means of replacing it. There is no point in trying to fix a window frame that is either damaged or rotten, so to make things a lot easier for you, get rid of the old frame and install a new one. When purchasing a replacement frame, make sure that it matches perfectly with the old frame so that it blends with the rest of the frames in your house. This guide is designed to help you replace a broken window frame with a new frame that is ready-to-install:
Step 1. Prepare the tools and materials you will need for the project. You will need a hammer, a flat bar, eight pieces of penny nails, a level, wooden shims, and some insulation tape.
Step 2. Depending on the style of your window, you will have to remove it first before starting to fix the broken frame. Once the window have been successfully taken out of the frame, force the old frame out using a flat bar and a hammer. Even if only one side of the frame is damaged, you will need to remove the entire frame out. Clear the opening from dirt and debris that might obstruct the installation of the new frame.
Step 3. Take the new frame and carefully insert it into the window opening. If the frame is too heavy for you, use some shims to help you hold the frame up while you are moving it. When the new frame has been set up in place, use a level to make sure it is level on all sides. This is also the time to reinsert the sashes or glass into the new frame. If you reinsert them later on, you will practically have a difficult time nailing the new frame in place since it will have more tendency to tilt when being nailed without the sashes or glass installed in place.
Step 4. Secure the new frame to the window opening by driving finishing nails into the each of the sides using your hammer. See to it that the nails are evenly placed along the sides. A good rule of the thumb is to place the nails 12 inches apart for a distance of four feet.
Step 5. After setting the new window frame in place, look for gaps between it and the window opening. Fill the gaps with insulation tape to prevent air from passing freely through them. Proper insulation of windows is an effective way to conserve energy on cooling and heating.
Step 6. You will have to give the replacement frame a paint job if the one you bought does not match the rest of the old frames. Otherwise, your job is complete.
The refrigerator is one of the most important appliances inside the home, and is also one of the most intimidating to repair when damaged or broken. Most people assume that when their refrigerator leaks, it is beyond their ability to repair and would immediately call in for a professional to fix the problem. What they do not realize is that most refrigerator leak problems can easily be fixed when diagnosed properly and immediately.
Step 1. The first step in repairing a leaking refrigerator is to look for the source of the leakage. This way, you will easily identify the area where the problem lies and begin to work from there. Some of the most common reasons for leaks in fridges are a faulty door, a worn out gasket, the ice maker, and the draining pan. Check these areas first every time you find your refrigerator leaking.
Step 2. If the leak is coming from the door of the fridge, inspect the door gasket and see whether it needs some fixing. It’s easy to clean the gasket if the problem is accumulated dirt, but if the gasket is worn out or has some tear, the best thing to do is to replace it. There are universal gaskets that can fit any type of refrigerator, but you would want to get one that’s specially designed for your refrigerator model to ensure quality and ease of installation.
Step 3. Besides a damaged gasket, your problem may also spring up from a broken fridge door. You need to tighten the bolts and screws of the fridge door if this is the case. If the door of your refrigerator is designed to close with the help of gravity, you might want to tilt the fridge at an angle so that the door will close fully. Usually, this is done either by placing a wooden shim underneath the front legs of the fridge or by adjusting the height if it comes with such feature.
Step 4. A leak may also be a result of a damaged water tube that comes with an ice maker in case your refrigerator has one. If the problem is indeed with the tube, you will have to replace it immediately with a new one. Loose fittings can also result to leaks. In this case, tighten the malfunctioned fittings that connect the ice maker and the water tube.
Step 5. Finally, check the drain pan and see whether it’s the one causing the leak. The drain pan is located at the bottom part of the fridge, usually at the back part. It is used to collect water condensation from the refrigerator and can sometimes overflow and cause water to pool on the floor. If this is the problem, then there’s nothing you should worry about. Simply remove the drain pan and pour the water content. You might also want to check if the drain has some holes that might be causing the leak. If there is none, put it back in place.
Styrofoam ceiling tiles are an option to consider whether you’re working on a new project or are renovating. These type of ceiling tiles are preferred by many homeowners today because of the excellent insulation they can offer either on hot or cold seasons. They also offer a sleek look to your ceiling once they are installed. And what’s more, they are easy and quick to install and can be a lot less expensive than textured or tin ceilings. In short, they can add real value to your home with less cost. The question is, how do you install Styrofoam ceiling tiles on your own? To answer that, here is a step-by-step guide:
Step 1. Before installation, you will need to prepare a sharp knife to cut the tiles with, caulk and caulk gun to fill gaps between tiles after they have been installed, mastic to glue the tiles, a sponge for cleaning excess caulk and other mess later on, and a ruler.
Step 2. Prepare your ceiling and make sure it is free from any kind of dust, dirt, loose paint, and anything that might cause the tiles no to stick properly to the surface. If there are any cracks or holes, fill them with special fillers or drywall mud.
Step 3. When the surface is clean and ready, find the center of the ceiling next. Once you find the center, get a chalk and draw two lines perpendicular to each other so as to create four equal parts.
Step 4. Take your Styrofoam tiles and apply a layer of mastic. Add some extra mastic if the surface you’re working on is too porous. If the surface is smooth, a thin layer of mastic, about half an inch, is enough. See to it that you apply the mastic not just in the center of the back of the tile but also near the edges and corners. The mastic you apply on the tile should not be flat, but instead should look like little humps. The mastic will spread by itself once you press the tiles into the surface later on.
Step 5. Now, it’s time to lay your first tile. The first tile should be laid at a right angle, parallel to the walls, with one of its corners exactly placed at the center of the ceiling. Lay the rest of the tiles with the first tile as your basis. See to it that you place the tiles closely together and make sure you press them just enough that the mastic will hold fast to the surface without you causing any damage to the tiles.
Step 6. Once you’re done laying all the tiles, fill the gaps between each of the tiles using caulk. Caulk will make your ceiling seamless so make sure to fill every gap with it no matter how small they are. Any excess caulk should be removed immediately using a damp sponge or cloth. After these simple steps, you can enjoy your simple yet stylish looking Styrofoam ceiling tiles.
If you have little kids in the house, chances are, jumping on beds will be a common sight in your daily routine. If your beds are new and the mattresses are thick enough to withstand the jumping, you probably will have no problem except to make sure they don’t fall off and hurt themselves. But what happens if one of the slats gets broken beneath the mattress? Don’t worry, you may not have to spend a fortune on a new bed, as these slats can be easily fixed with your own do-it-yourself skills.
Step 1 . Examine the slats to see which ones were broken. Whether it’s one slat or two, you will need to replace the slat with a new piece of wood. Even if the slat is only cracked, it is best to change it and not just glue it. Some people wonder if there is a type of glue that is strong enough to hold the slat back together, but experts advice against it, as glue will never be strong enough to support a bed slat.
Step 2. Measure the length of the slat you need based on the broken wood slat. As much as possible, remove the broken piece and take it along with you to the local hardware store so you can be sure to get the right thickness.
Step 3. Consider the weight that the bed will be supporting. If the broken bed is a kid’s bed, and if your child is already old enough not to jump around as much, you can get a 1 x 3 piece of wood. This is enough to support the weight of the child. If the bed is an adult’s bed, a 1 x3 will likely not be enough; in that case, get a 1 x 4. This would also actually be a better choice, since it is usually not certain that you could definitely keep your kids from jumping on the bed again. An important point to note is that these sizes, despite the 1-inch thickness in the name, typically actually measure three-fourths of an inch in thickness; this is why you have to bring along the broken slat. If you want to save on money, you can find scrap pieces from the scrap bin at the local hardware store.
Step 4. Alternatively, you can opt to do a process called “sistering.” In do-it-yourself lingo, this means attaching a sort of splint to the broken piece. You can do this by gluing the cracked portion of the wooden slat together. Then get a piece of wood that is about the same length and width. Bolt, screw, or nail this new wooden slab to keep the broken piece in place. In terms of bed slats, this would translate to bolting or nailing the new piece of wood underneath.
Step 5. Another option would be to get a piece of plywood to put over the wooden bed slats. This serves to distribute the weight evenly across the bed, and it may be a good fix for most beds.
When a family gets larger than initially expected, the usual course of action is that children share bedrooms. But what happens when the new baby arrives and the nearest sibling is already a teenager and needing privacy? Or when the shared room is already too small for the number of occupants? Most households still have one option available, and that is to convert an existing storeroom into the bedroom for one of the children. While it may seem like a daunting task, being organized from the very first will help make it a more easily attainable reality:
Step 1. Analyze the size and shape of the storeroom. Most storerooms are very small, but can still be converted into a bedroom for a young child. In fact, knowing how to maximize space might mean that your child can even grow up into his or her teens in that very same room. Note down the dimensions of the room so you can plan your layout.
Step 2. Before you begin hauling things out, already have what you envision drawn on paper. It could be a rough sketch, but its main purpose is to give you an idea how the final outcome should look. Part of your planning will also include finding a place for the things you used to store in that room.
Step 3. Clean out the storeroom. On a side note, it would be best to schedule a garage sale soonest, as there are likely plenty of things in that room that would be better off disposed. Be sure to take out every single box, as you would need an empty space to work on. When everything is out, give the room a thorough sweeping and mopping. Also, spraying everything with disinfectant and insecticide a few days before you start might be a good idea, as you are not sure what creatures have been living in that room for the last five years.
Step 4. When the room is clean, gather the things you would need: if you intend to change the flooring, which is advisable, you can opt for vinyl tiles as they are easier to install; for walls, you can choose between wallpaper or wall paint. You might also need sealant if you find any leaks on the ceiling or walls.
Step 5. Install the new flooring first. Follow the directions on the packaging of your vinyl tiles, starting in the center of the room. Be sure to clean off excess adhesive so that your floor will look bright and new.
Step 6. For wall paint, cover up your new floor with newspaper and mix up the color you want. If your child is old enough, he or she can help you paint, but make sure you put an appropriate face mask to protect him or her from the fumes.
Step 7. While you wait for the room to air out, find furniture that can fit into your storeroom. Typically, single beds can fit snugly. If you have carpentry skills, you can turn a single bed into a loft bed so your child can still have living space underneath her bed. Alternatively, you can opt for a sofa bed that can be converted easily into seating when not used as a bed.
If you have a nice patio, a screen door will likely be your best helper in allowing you to enjoy the fresh air while keeping airborne pests at bay. Technically, you will have to do little except to make sure the track and the rollers of your sliding door are kept clean. But what do you do when somebody accidentally causes a tear on the screen? There’s good news: it is actually very easy to replace a damaged screen, and you will not have trouble finding the things you need, as a trip to the local hardware store should do the trick.
Step 1. Check the size of the hole. If it is only about ¼ of an inch to 3/8 of an inch, you can usually just patch it up using a tiny amount of household cement. For larger holes, of up to 3 inches in diameter, you can use a screen patch: measure the screen to be about ½ to 1 inch larger in diameter compared to the hole. You can start by unraveling a few strands from the edges of the screen piece you are using as a patch, and then weaving the strands through the existing screen and bending them tight. However, if you screen is made of plastic or fiberglass, they are generally difficult to patch and would be better off replaced altogether.
Step 2. If the hole is larger than 3 inches in diameter, you would be better off replacing the entire screen. Before you head to the hardware store, try to slide your screen door back and forth to check for any other broken part. If the door seems to stick, vacuum the track to get rid of all dirt and try it another time. If it still refuses to slide easily, you might have to buy new rollers. Remove the sliding door from the frame by lifting it up and pulling its bottom edge off the track. It is best to bring the original roller so you can be sure you get the right match at the store.
Step 3. Measure the size of your door, and buy screen that is 2 inches larger on all sides. Also, if your existing spline is already brittle, buy some new ones: this is the rubber tubing that keeps the screen locked in place with a groove around the frame. This piece comes in many sizes, with the difference in diameter as small as 1/64th of an inch. As such, it is crucial to bring some sample so that you get the exact size you need. You will also need to buy a tool for installing the spline: it looks like a pizza cutter with a roller on each end.
Step 4. Remove the pieces of the door frame that hold the screen in place. You will likely need to remove the handle first. Then, using an awl, pry the piece that is holding the spline in place and remove the old spline. Also, if you will be replacing your rollers, remove them as well.
Step 5. Install the new spline and then align the new piece of screen on the door frame. Use the convex roller and concave roller to set the screen in place. Pull the screen taut and trim off the excess. After that, you can replace the panel and put your screen door back in place.
Among the different options for flooring, vinyl floor tiles are among the easiest to install. As such, you will hardly ever require the help of a professional, as opposed to installing ceramic tiles or carpet that might require a bit more expertise. If your home currently has vinyl floor tiles and you would like to change the color or design, have no fear, as you will likely be able to do it on your own at no added expense.
Step 1. Gather all the materials you need ready before you begin. This will save you precious time as well as energy, as it means you will be free from having to do things over. The items you will need include your new vinyl tiles, a heat iron or heat gun, tile adhesive, a putty knife, a notched trowel, rags, mineral spirits, and a rolling pin.
Step 2. In order to remove the old tiles, use the heat gun to soften the adhesive that attaches the tiles to your floor. Be careful not to melt the vinyl. Lift the tiles you want to remove with the putty knife. You can do this by starting at the corner of each tile and working your way towards the center.
Step 3. When you have removed all the vinyl tiles you want to replace, rub mineral spirits on the old adhesive on the floor in order to soften it. Then, with a scraper or a putty knife, scrape off the adhesive that has been dissolved by the mineral spirits.
Step 4. Measure the center point of the room; this is where you will install your first square set of vinyl tiles.
Step 5. Use your trowel to apply adhesive to the underside of your new set of vinyl tiles. You can apply them in groups, but be sure not to apply it to too many pieces lest the last few pieces dry up too much before you get to place them on the floor.
Step 6. Install the first four tiles around the center point. Make sure you position the first tile exactly, as it will determine the position of the rest of the tiles. Use the rolling pin to flatten the tile and get ride of air pockets.
Step 7. Use a rag that has been dampened with mineral spirits to wipe away the excess adhesive on the edges of your tile. Make sure you clean it thoroughly, as having any excess adhesive will mean dirt will collect there, and if you do not clean it immediately, you will have more trouble doing it later.
Step 8. Install all the remaining tiles, with the edges left open. To work on the edges, measure the remaining space and cut the needed size of vinyl tile to fit them neatly. When you’re done, you will have a nice border around all the sides of your vinyl tiles, and you will have a new floor!
Installing wallpaper might be an easy task for plain walls, but since all rooms will have at least a door, and most come with at least one window, you will need to learn how to hang the wallpaper over doors and windows without revealing a shoddy workmanship from your do-it-yourself project. Just like a typical wallpaper job, you will need wallpaper material, scissors, a measuring tape, a paper hanging brush, and a sponge, preferably.
Step 1. Don’t panic. As you go along your wallpaper hanging, you will very soon reach the doorway. If you panic, you will likely wind up cutting your wallpaper into pieces. Instead, take one full piece and start at the top just as you would over the other parts of the room. Ensure that the paper is smooth, secure, and seamless at the top, and then let the paper roll down. Also, make sure it is the same length as all the other pieces you have already hung.
Step 2. Take a measurement of the width and length of the door, including the trim, if there is any. Keep yourself from hanging all the pieces that will go around your door. You will be installing it one piece at a time and making sure each piece is installed perfectly before moving on. Leave a few inches in excess and, using the scissors, cut out roughly the layout of the door. Use your paper hanging brush to smoothen out the areas that you have already secured.
Step 3. Cut the wallpaper diagonally right into the corners of your door. Be careful not to cut the paper too far or not cut it far enough, as it would cause a lot of problems. Smooth out the wallpaper, beginning from the edge going towards the door. Remove air pockets using the paper hanging brush. As you do so, be sure that the seams remain straight.
Step 4. Use your fingers, a dull straight-edge, or the paper hanging brush, to push the paper into the door trim edges, smoothing wrinkles and air pockets along the way. The bristles of the brush will help you get a tight fit. Make a crease on your paper along the sides of the door and over the top. With the crease as your guide, fold your excess paper on the crease to re-enforce the edge. Do a check of the top corner of the door to make sure the corner of your paper did not get any tear. Also, make sure that the creases you make give you a perfect right angle. You can also use the sponge to go over the creases a last time to be sure they are perfect.
Step 5. After this first piece hung around the doorway, you can proceed with the other pieces more easily. Confirm with your measurements to decide whether you will hang a shorter piece or just fit a corner into the edges. Just be sure to leave excess paper hanging and cut them altogether around the perimeter of the door.
Furniture in the home typically does not suffer from broken legs, but when one of the legs on your dining set chairs gets broken, you likely will not want to replace the entire set to make them match. Or, if the broken leg happens to belong to a sentimental piece, you also might not be too keen with the idea of buying a new item. Good news is, it is possible to repair a broken furniture leg.
Step 1. Gather your materials for the task. For repairing broken furniture legs, you will need diagonal cutters, rasp, large nails dependent on the leg diameter, a hand or electric drill, small fine file, masking tape, polyvinyl glue, preferably white, a roll of waxed paper, and about 4 to 5 feet of strong twine.
Step 2. Turn the furniture in question over so that its legs are pointing upwards. If you are fixing a chair, you can put it on a workbench or a table so that the back is hanging down. If you will be fixing a heavy table, be sure you get some help in hoisting it up and not endeavour to flip it over all by yourself.
Step 3. If the broken leg has already been broken at a prior time, use rasp to clean off all the old glue.
Step 4. Using the masking tape, secure the broken leg pieces to each other in their original position.
Step 5. Use your diagonal cutters to cut the head off your large nail, (a 4-penny nail typically works well) and put the nail into your drill. You will be using this as your bit. Drill two holes, at right angle, through the broken leg. Insert 4-penny nails into the holes in a way that the nails protrude out of the ends of both holes.
Step 6. Remove the masking tape from around the leg. Apply paraffin wax on the finished portions of the leg, making sure you stay away from the broken joint. This is because the wax will keep your glue from doing its work.
Step 7. Put some glue into the broken joint and around the sides of the break. Squeeze the parts together until the glue oozes out. Use waxed paper to wrap the joint, and hold it tightly together using twine. Let the furniture dry overnight.
Step 8. The next day, remove the twine and the waxed paper. Then, use the diagonal cutters to cut off the parts of the nails that are protruding out, as close as possible to the leg. Use your file to smoothen the nail end, making sure it is flush with the surface of the leg. When you are sure it is sufficiently and properly filed, you can turn your furniture piece back on its right side, and it can be used again as per normal.
If you happen to have a door that lets in lots of dirt or noise when left open, you might want to consider installing a door closer. This hydraulics-based add-on might scare you as to the complicated way it works, but it is actually very possible to install it yourself without the help of a professional.
Step 1. Before you hit the local hardware store to buy your door closer, measure the size of your door. Typically, residential type doors only require one type of door closer. The exception would be if you happen to have the larger swinging doors on your main entrance; if the door is larger than usual, you might have to get a door closer designed for light commercial-slash-residential use.
Step 2. When you have your door closer with you, get your materials together. For hardwood doors, you will need a hand drill and a drill bit in the size of the screws included in the door closer kit. If the wood of your door is not that hard, you might be able to drive the screw manually into the door.
Step 3. Take out the directions. You have three ways to install the door closer: the traditional way (wherein the door closer is installed near the hinge of the door), a parallel installation (with the door closer installed near the edge of the door that opens and closes), and having the door closer hang on the jamb instead of the door. For the easiest way, you can opt for the traditional way of installation.
Step 4. Typically, the directions will come with a stencil that you can use to measure the holes you will need to drill. Check the direction of the picture, whether the door described is left-opening or right-opening. You will install the door closer on the side of the door where it swings into. This means you will be standing where the door opens, and then check where the hinge is. If your kit does not come with a stencil, measure about 3 inches from the hinge side of the door on the very top, and use a pencil to draw your holes by putting the door closer, valve side facing the hinge, on the door and finding the spots where the screws will go.
Step 5. Drill the holes for the door closer body and screw it in place. From there, install the arms on top, with the thinner piece on top.
Step 6. You will install the lock for this thinner piece on the door jamb, making a right angle against the jamb. This will form a very acute triangle with the other arm. Draw the place where you will drill the holes, drill them, and screw the arm in place.
Step 7. Check the speed with which the door closer closes the door, as well as the speed of its latching capability. If it closes too fast or slams too hard, you will need to adjust the valve on the side, using a hex screw.
