The need to replace a bathroom sink may arise when one, your old sink is broken, and two, you need to renovate the entire bathroom. While you can certainly perform the job on your own, you have to understand first that replacing a bathroom sink can be really time-consuming. Nevertheless, it would be worth all your effort especially since you’re doing the task not just to improve the look of your bathroom but also to enhance your lifestyle. Meanwhile, the materials required to get the job done include a measuring tape, a putty knife, a wrench, sealant, a bucket, some cleaning rags, a screwdriver, and replacement sink.
Step 1. The first step in replacing a bathroom sink is to measure the sink. Using your measuring tape, get the dimensions of the sink, its depth, length, and width. Measure the dimensions of the counter top as well.
Step 2. Once you have taken the measurement of your old bathroom sink and the countertop it is resting in, only then should you buy the replacement bathroom sink. Take the measurements with you as you go the store to make sure you buy the right sink that would match your bathroom.
Step 3. Before you begin any kind of work, make sure to turn the water supply to the sink first. If possible, remove the faucet and the drain as well.
Step 4. Next, disconnect the plumbing from your old sink. Get the bucket and place it under the P trap. The P trap is where water is collected from your sink and once you disconnect it, so by placing a bucket under it, you are preventing water from getting all over the floor. Remove the drain as well by unscrewing it and getting rid of the existing putty using your putty knife. If there are any clips that connect the sink to the counter, you may want to remove them as well.
Step 5. The sink’s rim is connected to the counter top with sealant. Get rid of this sealant using your putty knife. Once you’re done removing all the sealant, you can gently lift the sink out and put it aside or throw it away.
Step 6. Next, apply sealant to the new sink and place it in the counter top. See to it that the new sink fits perfectly into the counter top. Get rid of excess sealant using a cleaning rag.
Step 7. Once the sink has been connected to the countertop, reinstall the P trap and the faucet next. If you are sure that there are no leaks, caulk the edges of the P trap.
Step 8. After connecting the P trap and the faucet, you can now test the new sink. Turn on the water supply and let water run freely from the faucet into the new sink. Check the edges of the sink and the connections as well and observe whether there are leaks or not. After a few minutes of observing and you see no leaks, you can congratulate yourself for a job well done.
Sunroom windows are essential to any home as they provide natural light to rooms. Since they are made mostly by glass and wood, they need a lot of care and maintenance. However, no matter how good you take care of your sunroom, accidents happen that may cause windows to get cracked or broken. Not only are broken windows unsightly to look at, but can also be the cause of other problems like leaks especially during rainy seasons. The good thing is that sunroom windows are not that difficult to fix when they get broken or damaged. When installing replacement windows for the sunroom you will need a pair of safety gloves and goggles, a measuring tape, a screwdriver, a masking tape, a sealant, a caulk gun, a hammer, and a scraper. Prepare these things first before attempting to begin your work. Meanwhile, here are the steps you need to take in order to successfully replace a broken sunroom window.
Step 1. Take your measuring tape and measure the dimension of the area that needs to be fixed. Based on the measurements you get, buy a glass replacement for your window. When choosing glass, select one with the same quality and thickness as the ones you are currently using in your sunroom.
Step 2. Before removing a cracked or broken piece of glass, apply masking tape diagonally on the glass to avoid pieces from falling out and injuring you. If the glass is badly damaged and there are already pieces lying on the floor, get rid of the pieces on the floor first before removing the rest of the glass. Don’t forget to wear your safety gloves before working to avoid cutting yourself.
Step 3. Using your screwdriver, loosen the screws that are holding the trim of the frame in place. Work by removing one screw at a time until the entire trim is loose enough to be removed. There are cases that the trim is nailed in place so you will have to pry it off using a pry bar if necessary.
Step 4. Remove the old sealant form the window frame using either your screwdriver or a scraper. Get rid of all the old sealant and caulking, making sure not to damage the frame at the same time.
Step 5. Once the trim and the old sealant have been removed, you can then remove the glass. Push the glass slowly from the outside until it is loosened from the window frame. You can also tap the glass gently with your palm if pushing it doesn’t work.
Step 6. When the entire glass has been removed, apply caulk to the window frame next using your caulk gun.
Step 7. Next, insert the replacement glass into the frame carefully. Once the glass is set in place, leave it for five minutes and wait for the sealant to dry. After being sure that the sealant has dried completely, install the trim back into place. Now your sunroom window is as good as new. Perform regular checkup in your sunroom to check for broken glass or damaged frames. By doing this, you will be able to enjoy your sunroom for a very long time.
If you notice a leak in your roof, you may not have to worry about replacing the entire roof, as many roofs develop leaks many years before you actually need to replace the entire thing. These leaks typically come about by damage to the area, perhaps caused by missing shingles or cracked ones, or perhaps blistering or cracking on a flat roof. Of course, what makes roof repair a bit more complicated is the problem of locating where the leak comes from. Understandably, working on a roof is quite dangerous; as such, you must take the necessary precautions to avoid serious injury.
Before you begin, take note of the following safety precautions: be sure to work on a day that is totally sunny, and make sure the roof is totally dry to avoid slips and falls; also, make use of safety ropes to prevent falls; if you are working on a steep roof, utilize a ladder framework for secure anchoring; use shoes with rubber soles to give you maximum traction; be wary of power lines while working on your roof. With these in mind, you can now proceed with the following steps:
Step 1. Check the shingles on the roof to see if any are curled, damaged, or missing. Check the place where two pieces meet as well as around each vent or chimney if you can find any breaks in the caulking or flashing, as well as for gaps in the roof cement lines. If you cannot locate anything wrong with the shingles or any flashing in the area of the leak, it is a signal to call in a professional roofer, as it likely means there is not enough flashing, or possibly the shingles may have deteriorated.
Step 2. For damages found on the shingles, work on the curled up shingles first. Reattach curled-back shingles using either tube compounds to be used with a caulking gun, or asphalt roof cement. As you work in warm weather, pull the curled shingle into a straightened form; if you are working in cooler weather, it might not be as simple, as the shingle tends to become brittle. In this case, soften the curled shingle first with a propane torch attached with a nozzle designed to spread the flame. Hold the flame onto the curled edges, making it warm for it to soften but be sure not to heat it too much or else it will catch fire. From that point on, you can straighten out the shingle edges, and reattach it using a generous helping of roof cement on the bottom.
Step 3. If you find rotten, missing, or torn shingles, you will have to replace them with new pieces. Rotten shingles include those that can lift right off your roof. In an emergency, you can cut patches from sheet copper or aluminum. Lift the edges of shingles surrounding the one you intend to replace, and remove the nails carefully using a pry bar. Then, slide the old shingle out. Slightly round off the back corners of a new shingle using a utility knife, and slide the piece into the back, aligning its front edge with the shingles on its side. Fasten the top of the new shingle by driving galvanized roofing nails through the corners, and apply roof cement on the nail heads.
It’s quite unfortunate to have one of the glass panes in your French door to be broken. French doors can be pretty expensive, so you can say that fixing it when it gets broken can be expensive as well. You’re lucky, though, because broken glass panes are quite easy to fix even if they belong to an expensive type of door. Removing and replacing a broken glass pane can be done by a single person, and if you can follow these steps carefully, there’s no need for you to hire a professional. These steps are applicable if you are fixing one or two glass panes. However, if you are fixing a large piece of glass, you will have to remove the door from its frame and lay it on the floor and work from there.
Step 1. Prepare the supplies you will need in order to get the job done. You will need a pair of safety goggles to protect your eyes, a pair of working gloves, a hammer, a putty knife, some window putty, masking tape, glazier points, and some replacement glass.
Step 2. Make sure to put on your safety gloves and goggles before starting. If there are any kids in the house, you might want to ask them to stay away from the working area until you’re finished. Next, check whether the glass that needs to be fixed is completely shattered or simply has a crack on it. If the glass is shattered into pieces, see to it that you gather all the pieces and get rid of them. If the problem is a crack, put some masking tape all across the area to hold the glass together. This will prevent the glass from shattering into the floor when you start to remove it. Now, to remove the broken glass, tap it using your hammer. Gently remove all the pieces and set them aside to throw later. To make sure there are no little pieces of glass lying on the floor, sweep the area clean.
Step 3. There will probably be some old glazier points and glazing putty left from where the glass once had been. Remove all these excess using your putty knife. If you find that there is a frame that holds the broken glass, you will have to remove it as well. Scrape old varnish or paint as well to smoothen the surface.
Step 4. Make an adhesive for the replacement glass by taking a tiny amount of putty and working it in your hands until it becomes soft. Apply the putty to the frame and smooth it using your putty knife or your fingers.
Step 5. Insert the replacement glass into the pane. To hold the glass in place while installing it, place glazier points on both sides of the opening. Check if the glass is properly aligned. Next, take the wooden frame and put it back in place. You can tap it gently with your hands or a hammer and secure it using small nails.
Overtime, kitchen cabinet veneers can get worn out. But instead of buying new cabinets to replace the old ones, you can simply perform resurfacing jobs to save on cost. Laminating kitchen cabinets is relatively easy, especially since there are many modern refacing kits available today that can help you get the job done with less difficulty. Below are the steps you will need if you wish to laminate your kitchen cabinets.
Step 1. Before working on the cabinets, you will need to prepare tools and equipments such as a hammer, a screwdriver, sandpaper, wood glue, nails, end panels, self-adhesive laminate, and laminate veneer.
Step 2. Remove cabinet doors, moldings, and other hardware. Using your screwdriver, remove the hinges to the door first. Once you have removed all the doors, take off the molding using a hammer fork. Make sure to work gently to avoid breaking the cabinets. If you plan to reuse hardware such as screws and hinges, see to it that you keep them together by placing them in a container. Sand any surface that have been peeled off or are loose to clean it. If there are any large scratches, fill them in using some putty.
Step 3. Using sandpaper, work over the surface of the cabinet that you wish to laminate. After that, get rid of dirt and debris by wiping them off with a damp cloth. If possible, soak the cloth first in water mixed with dishwashing soap, but make sure to wring it properly before wiping it on the wooden surface.
Step 4. Attach end panels to cover existing end panels of your kitchen cabinet. There are end panels sold in the market today that can be cut to fit any cabinet. Measure the size you need and cut them. Next, attach the pieces firmly to the cabinet using wood glue and some nails. Sand the edges using 150 grit sandpaper.
Step 5. Cut the laminate to strips using a sharp knife or scissors. When cutting, make sure to leave a half an inch allowance on each side. It’s better to have an excess on the edges than to come up short. Attach the lamination to the cabinet by peeling off a small part of the back paper. Press on veneer gently by firmly and make sure that it is properly aligned all throughout. Maintain an even overlap so as not to ruing the appearance of the cabinet. Make sure not to commit any mistakes while installing the veneer because once it has been attached, it is very difficult to remove without damaging the surface.
Step 6. When you’re done attaching the lamination, go over the edges and check for any excess that needs to be trimmed. Use a sharp knife when trimming excesses, and make sure you cut perfectly. Any mistake you commit can cause you to work on the area all over again so be careful. Once you’re done removing all the excess, you can consider your work complete.
Most sewage pipes are made of hard plastic, either PVC or ABS. While these types of material don’t easily wear out, they can get damaged over time especially through tremors brought about by passing vehicles or weights place above the ground where they are located. A broken sewage pipe needs immediate fixing, as it can pose as a major health hazard not only to your household but to the people living around your area. Fixing a broken sewage pipe is no easy task at all, but once you get to the root of the problem, the rest of the job should be easy. Before you engage yourself with the repair, make sure you wear special clothing especially gloves and a mask as the job could be really messy.
Step 1. Locate the area of your sewage pipe that has been damaged. If the damaged area is located underneath concrete cement, you will need to break the floor using either a sledgehammer or a jackhammer, depending on the thickness of the concrete. If the pipe is underneath soil, all you need to do is simply dig around the trench until the pipe is exposed. Dig carefully so as not to cause potential damage to the rest of the line and make sure you dig enough space around the pipe so that you can work and maneuver in the area more easily.
Step 2. Once the pipe has been completely exposed, remove the broken pieces if there are any and carefully cut the damaged portion using a saw. Use a reciprocal saw for the job, but if there isn’t enough space for it, use a hacksaw instead. Again, be extra careful not to damage the rest of the pipe while removing the damaged piece.
Step 3. Measure the size of the damaged pipe and use it as the basis for the size of the one you’re going to use as replacement. Take a new piece of pipe that’s made of the same material and has the same diameter as the rest of the pipes in your sewage line. Cut a portion of the new pipe to replace the damaged one using a reciprocal saw.
Step 4. With the replacement pipe set aside, attach a coupling on each end of the two pipes where you are going to set up the new pipe. Make sure the couplings are properly inserted before attaching the new pipe.
Step 5. Next, get the replacement pipe and lay it between the two ends of the cut pipes where it should be positioned. Insert each side of the new pipe into the couplings attached to the cut pipes. Using a screwdriver, tighten the clamps for each coupling.
Step 6. Pour some water into the drain to run through the pipes and observe what happens. Check each end of the replacement pipe for leaks. If you find that the new pipe is leaking, try to see if the clamps need more tightening and act accordingly.
Old cabinets typically come with simple hinges that swing open—and stay that way—until you slam it closed and push it right into the opening. This is typically acceptable for cabinets like wardrobes or closets, but for kitchen cabinets, you will find doors that stay open a safety hazard, not only for overhanging cabinets that might hit you on the head, but also for floor cabinets that might leave a risk of bottle breakage for little hands.
If your house or apartment currently has kitchen cabinets that utilize these safety hazards, you have two choices: either you develop the habit of keeping them closed all the time as you go about your busy kitchen tasks, or you could replace the hinges with concealed hinges that automatically swing the door shut with a slight nudge. However, many people are uncertain how to install concealed hinges, as they are not as straightforward as the regular hinges which you simply screw onto the cabinet door and the sides of the cabinet. These simple steps should give you the confidence you need in replacing all the outdated hinges with concealed hinges:
Step 1. Before you remove the cabinet door, check the thickness of the wood: typically, concealed hinges will require at least ¾-inch thick plywood, as you will be burying the hinge into the wood, and anything thinner than ¾-inch might cause the hinge to go through the wood.
Step 2. Remove the cabinet door by unscrewing the existing hinges. Before you install the new hinges, you might want to apply a bit of wood putty to the holes caused by the screws of the hinges. If you intend to install the concealed hinges on another part of the door, you can even choose to repaint that portion.
Step 3. Open the concealed hinge with the fat part facing the cabinet door and the thin part assigned to the inner wall of the kitchen cabinet. Screw the thin part onto the cabinet wall. If the material is hardwood, you may benefit from using a hand drill.
Step 4. Hold the cabinet door to the kitchen cabinet to mark where you will put the fat part of the concealed hinges. Using a pencil, draw around the hinge, making sure you have the edge of the hinge meeting the edge of the wood.
Step 5. Chisel out the space for the concealed hinge using a hammer and a chisel. Use the other hinge in the pair to check if you have chiselled it out deep enough. Once it is thick enough, screw the hinge in place.
Step 6. Do the same for the other hinge in the pair. Now you get to enjoy your new kitchen cabinet with concealed hinges!
Wooden cabinets and tables with drawers are great places to store things, but when the drawer gets stuck, it can be extremely frustrating. This is even more so if the drawer contains important documents or items. Even if you finally get the drawer open one time, it can still get stuck the next time, resulting in another round of frustration and annoyance. If you have one of these hard-headed drawers, there is actually a practical solution to your problem:
Step 1. For this project you will need the following things: an extension cord with a socket for a light bulb, or a portable lamp; a 75-watt incandescent light bulb; coarse grade sandpaper, ½-grit, about one sheet should be enough; silicone spray or paraffin wax.
Step 2. If you have already managed to remove the drawer, proceed to Step 3. If it is still stuck in place, try to open the drawer even just a few inches. This may require the frustrating pulling and pushing just to get it to open a tiny bit, at least enough to allow the light bulb to be inserted into the opening. If there is a neighboring drawer or a drawer above or below it through which you can access the stuck drawer, check if anything needs to be cleared; you can use a bent coat hanger to fish around in the drawer to make sure nothing is stuck on the sides or the top.
Step 3. When you have successfully opened the drawer a bit, put the extension cord with the light bulb into the drawer and turn on the bulb by plugging the extension cord into the nearest outlet. Leave the lit bulb inside for about 15 minutes to heat up the space enough; the heat of the bulb will shrink the wood, and when the wooden drawer is shrunk enough, it will become very easy to pull the drawer out.
Step 4. Remove the drawer and place it on a stable surface, and use the coarse-grit sandpaper to smooth down the sides of the drawer. Also be sure to sand down the tops and bottoms of the drawer runners. Dust off the sawdust or use a cloth rag to wipe off the dust from the drawer sides.
Step 5. Apply silicone spray or rub paraffin on the sides of the drawer and on the tops and bottoms of the runners. This will give the drawer a smooth and sliding surface so that it would not get stuck again.
Step 6. Put the drawer back into the cabinet. Do not push it all the way back in yet; instead, test to see if there are still areas of the drawer that seem binding. If you find any place where the fit still seems tight, remove the drawer again and sandpaper that portion. Once you are done, you can be confident to leave the drawer in its place and you can be sure it will no longer stick.
Perhaps you think that painting the interior of your house is something that you can do yourself, while the exterior would require the services of a professional. Of course, there is some degree of truth in that, as the exterior typically requires much more finishing in order to give the best looks, whereas interior walls are likely already smooth enough for repainting. Also, exterior paint needs to stand up to the daily wear and tear of the weather. But with the proper time and effort spent for painting the exterior of your house, you can still achieve the looks of a professional paint job. Remember, preparing the surfaces properly means that the paint will last longer, and the overall look will also be visibly better. Surely, it will take you longer to prepare the different surfaces compared to someone who is experienced with it, but if you are up for the fun, about 2-5 hours can be allocated for the various pre-paint tasks.
Step 1. There are a variety of pre-paint tasks depending on the house. These generally include the following things for you to do: first, remove the shutters if you prefer; fill up holes in the eaves or wood trim using wood fillers; sand the rough and weathered paint off from existing eaves and trim; cover all air conditioning units that protrude out the exterior wall; go through the whole exterior to get rid of all wasps’ nests or spider webs; glaze the windows; clean the surfaces you will be painting; and clear shrubs or dirt away from the base of your house.
Step 2. After you clean the wooden surfaces, sand the wood eaves, trim and moldings with rough-grit 40- to 60-grit sandpaper. If you have access to a disc sander, this will make the task go faster. When you remove the old paint, be sure to remove all the rough edges, even if you cannot get rid of all the paint. This will ensure that the new coat of paint will stick properly. If you require paint removal for some areas, use paint thinner to dissolve the old paint and then wipe or wash it off, making sure you wear safety gloves as you do so.
Step 3. With an old paintbrush, sweep the wood particles and dust away from the sanded surfaces. This will ensure that the wood surfaces are all smooth and allow the paint to adhere properly. Apply primer to the wood surfaces for optimum results; semi-enamel exterior latex paint will then be a good choice for the final coat, as this resists weather.
Step 4. Make sure that you properly prepare all the exterior surfaces of your house. This includes the body, the trim, the windows, and the doors. Apply the same sanding technique to all these components, and subsequently clean off the dust and wood particles.
Though quite expensive, a sprinkler system is imperative if you are to maintain the health and beauty of your lawn. Having a professional set it up in your home may be the best option but if you are tight on budget, you can get the job done on your own. A sprinkler system is a little bit complicated that’s why it’ essential that you have a little knowledge and experience in working with lawn or garden hardware. Nevertheless, it is not impossible to install one on your own if you follow these steps very carefully:
Step 1. Know your lawn or garden’s need. There are two types of sprinklers you can choose from; one with the sprinkler head extending permanently above the ground and one with pop up heads that are hidden in the ground and only pop up when turned on.
Step 2. Make the preparations needed for the project. The first thing you would want to accomplish is to get permits from authorities to allow you to set up a sprinkler system. This is important so as to prevent unwanted incidents especially if you are not sure of the location of electrical wires, telephone wires, and most especially gas lines that are buried underground.
Step 3. Begin installation by creating a group of control valves, also called a manifold. The manifold is where water from the source will collect first before it is distributed to the different circuit paths in the system. You can either have the manifold mounted above the ground or have it buried.
Step 4. Dig V-shaped trenches that are at least 8 inches deep and make sure they are level with the ground. Tap into your water supply by setting up a tee on a line right after the water meter. You can also install the tee behind a hose bib or connect it a main supply line past the meter. Install an emergency shut-off valve as well.
Step 5. Arrange the pipes inside the trenches and begin setting up the system. Once the pipes are connected and cured, set up the risers next and attach the sprinkler heads. Bury the sprinkler heads just deep enough or a few inches from the ground so that they don’t stick out. You can also put filter screens on the sprinkler heads to avoid impurities from clogging them. You might also want to test the functionality of the sprinkler heads to find out whether the water pressure is too high or too low. Installing pressure regulators will help you correct water pressure problems you may face.
Step 6. Install the controller and connect it to the control valves using electric wires. After connecting the valves, set the controls and test the system to check that each of the circuits are working properly. Walk through the whole system to check for leaks before backfilling the trenches. Finally, refill the trenches by adding soil and water them to make sure they are compact.
