Step 1. The first thing you need to do is to make measurements of the couch in all directions. Make measurements of all dimensions you need to cover; this lets you know how many yards of fabric you will need. While you make the measurements, think about the color scheme you want the room to have.

Step 2. Place the couch in a room where will not mind making a mess in. Using pliers, carefully remove the old fabric on the couch, being sure not to rip it off. The pieces need to be left impact, as you will need it to form the pattern for your new fabric. When the fabric is removed, check the padding: if the padding is already worn off, you can add quilt batting to soften them some more. Also confirm that the frame or springs are not damaged.

Step 3. When you go to shop for the fabric, bring something of the color you want to have as a guide. Typically, upholstery fabric should be one that stands up well to wear and tear, although any fabric can actually work; just make sure you pick a durable kind, and in a design that is easy to match. This means that complicated patterns may be more difficult to complement. Make sure you buy one or two yards over what you measured to give room for mistakes. Also think about whether you want matching cushions; in that case, buy extra fabric for the cushions.

Step 4. Lay the new fabric out, and pin the old fabric on top of it; trace the pattern of the old pieces onto the underside of the new fabric. Cut out the new pattern, matching the size and shape of the old pieces.

Step 5. Put the new, cut pieces of fabric onto the correct position on the couch to reassemble. Use the staple gun to attach the fabric to the couch frame, making sure you do so in the same way that that old pieces had been attached. A tack hammer can help to secure the fabric in place. As you do this, be sure to stretch the fabric so you can get a nice, tight fit, keeping wrinkles to a minimum. This will make your couch look professionally upholstered. As an additional task, you can also sew covers for cushions to make them match using the same fabric, sewing three sides and adding a zipper for the fourth side.

Step 1. Do a thorough sweep of the floor, following it up with a thorough scrubbing with laundry detergent. For floors that are not too soaked with grease, the broom may actually be used to work up the suds. Rinse the suds off with a few buckets of water, making sure to sweep the water outside. Dry off the floor for a couple of days before you start to install the flooring. While the floor dries, and as long as you can have solid footing by the walls, you can start painting the walls.

Step 2. With your mask and gloves put on, install the insulation into the garage-door space. Over the installation, fit the plywood panels, nailing them to the studs on what used to be the garage door. Install them in a way that you will have a normal-sized apartment door.

Step 3. When the paint dries, install the flooring you chose. Peel-and-stick floor tiles are pretty straightforward to install by just following the directions on their box; you can also opt for woven jute mats positioned where you need them to be, such as in places where you will put the bed or the sofa. You can also opt to paint the floor with matte enamel paint for a tighter budget.

Step 4. Run electrical wirings and plumbing through the exterior wall of the house towards the garage apartment. You can save on costs by placing the kitchen and bathroom closest to the wall shared with the main house. For a large garage, you can then section off different living areas, setting up plywood walls. A one-car garage will typically be better off left as a studio apartment.

Step 5. If the person who will use the garage apartment is actually a family member who can go in anytime to use the bathroom, you need not worry about installing a toilet. But if the apartment will be rented out to strangers, you can opt for a chemical toilet. You can check for a safe as well as legal space for regularly dumping the chemical toilet in line with sanitation and health laws. Camping equipment stores are good places to buy a chemical toilet.

Step 6. Now that you have gotten the necessary things in place, you can now start to furnish and decorate your new apartment!

Step 1. Before you start building, there are some preparatory steps to take: First, be sure you check with the local building authority for the needed papers. Then, confirm that the attic has at least 7 feet height in the top portion of the rafters, although higher is more preferable. Also, check the part where the rafters slope downwards: a minimum of four feet is required to make it usable for living space. While you are there, check the structural integrity of the floor rafters. There should be a minimum of 2 x 4 inch lumber spanned a maximum of 10 feet with no support. The rafters should also sit on centers of 16 inches or less. You can actually consult an engineer to confirm the structural integrity of the space, just to be sure.

Step 2. Re-route all existing attic vents, especially if they will wind up interfering with the new configuration of the space. You can opt for ridge vents, as they are considered a good choice for attic conversion. Also re-route all furnace and plumbing vents, making sure you avoid terminating any of the vents. Along with that, plan the air and heat access to the attic bedroom. Sometimes you may not be able to connect to the existing HVAC system, but you can get around that by installing a small HVAC unit instead, preferably a horizontal one, and creating a vent into the exterior of the house.

Step 3. Build a staircase for the new bedroom. Make sure you allow at most 8 inches for the rise and at least 11 inches for the tread. This keeps you from making a staircase that is too steep or too narrow.

Step 4. Lay down the subfloor: this will extend under the area under which the knee walls run. Unless you want to use the space for cabinets, you may not need to install a subfloor beyond this point. Create a frame for the sidewalls and knee walls, at a minimum of 2 x 4 inch lumber that you set on 16-inch centers. Any exterior sidewall windows should also be installed at this point.

Step 5. Install venting runs, electrical, phone and cable wire, plumbing vents, as well as other mechanical elements into the bedroom. Extend the rafters to a minimum of 5-1/2-inch depth to have room for an R-19 insulation at the minimum.

Step 6. Apply drywall mud and tape on the walls, following sheetrocking. Paint over the walls, and then install the outlet covers and light fixtures. Install the final flooring, window trim, and base trim, and attach all closet doors. Now your attic bedroom is ready to go!

• Baking soda and vinegar – These kitchen staples have always been hailed for its cleaning properties, and for garbage disposals, it is no different. First, pour a half cup of baking soda into the kitchen drain. Right after that, pour in a cup of white vinegar into the drain, too. Close the drain off by putting the drain stopper into the sink; for double sinks, do this for both. The baking soda and vinegar mixture will make fizzing sounds. While this happens, boil water in a full teakettle or a medium-sized pot. Then, pour the boiling water down the drain.
• Chlorine bleach – This is another common cleaning agent used for kitchens and bathrooms. For your garbage disposal, mix one tablespoon of liquid chlorine bleach into a clean container with one gallon of water. Then, slowly and carefully pour this solution down the drain, leaving it to settle for a few minutes. After a few minutes, flush the drain out by running the tap for a few minutes.
• Ice cubes – You can clean the cutting blades of your garbage disposal by making it grind ice cubes. You can do this by placing a few ice cubes into the drain and grinding them.
• Citrus fruits – The rind from citrus fruits are an excellent choice for adding a bit of nice scent to any area. You can do this by adding rinds to the drain, whether those of oranges, limes, lemons, or grapefruits.
• Dishwashing detergent – You can use this for daily cleaning to keep your garbage disposal in excellent shape. Pour a bit of dishwashing detergent into the sink and run some tap water in order to form suds. Turn the garburator on and let the soapy water flush through the unit. This helps clear most of the stuck-up debris from the unit. Continue running cold water for about one minute after the food has been cleared by the disposal unit. This is effective at pushing the food waste down as far into the drain as possible. After the water has flowed through, stop the unit, take out the screen and clean it by scrubbing with an old toothbrush.

Step 1. Set your table saw rip fence to 4 inches. Be sure to measure from the inside edge of the fence to the center of the blade. For the depth, set it at about 1-1/2 inches. Make 2 pieces each from two pieces of 8-foot length of clear pine measuring 1 x 12 inches. This will give you two pieces measuring 4 inches wide, and two pieces measuring 3-1/2 inches. Set the 3-1/2-inch-wide pieces aside.

Step 2. Measure the rip fence and set it at 1-3/4 inches. Rip the two pieces of 8-foot x 3-1/2-inch clear pine. You will use these to make the spacer blocks as well as the vertical rails for your bedrail. Get measurements of the height from the top of the side rails of your child’s bed frame to the floor; for bedrails that rise about 18 inches over the mattress, add 24 inches to the height you measured.

Step 3. Using the crosscut guide on your table saw, cut the two pieces of clear pine with 4-inch width to this dimension; these will be the sides of your bedrail. Set the width of your bedrails by deducting 8 inches for the width of the side pieces; cut two pieces of the pine for the top and the bottom of the rail.

Step 4. Lay the pieces for the side bedrail flat, putting the bottom and top pieces flat between them. Flush the outer edges of all the corners. Put wood glue to the ends of the pieces, using clamps to hold the sides fixed in place on the bottom and top of the frame. With a framing square, check that the frame is aligned, and then tighten the clamps. Leave the glue overnight to dry, and only remove the pole clamps after the glue has dried.

Step 5. Cut 8 pieces of spacer blocks measuring 4 inches long from the 1 ¾-inch wide rip pieces. Also make 6 vertical rails of the same dimension for the side pieces.

Step 6. Pre-drill each end of the vertical rails and the spacer blocks. Put wood glue to the vertical rail and have it aligned against one edge of the bedrail frame. Use 1-1/4-inch wood screws to screw the vertical end piece to the bedrail. Spread wood glue to the spacer blocks, and have them set flat on the vertical end piece at the bottom and top of the frame, flushing the edge of the spacers and screwing 1-1/4-inch wood screws to them. Do the same for the rest of the spacers and vertical rails, with the final vertical piece aligned against the edge of the bedrail. If necessary, cut a special spacer to complete the project.  

Step 1. First, you will have to prepare the base. You will need to do different prep treatments for different surfaces. For concrete portions, you will simply need to pressure-wash the area. For areas that are not concrete, you will need to bring in base rock to make a solid foundation: lay the base rock down so that it rises at least one inch above the concrete, and then use a gas-powered compactor to push it down until it is only very slightly higher than the neighboring concrete. For bare soil, you will need to dig a bit until you have two inches of base; give room for about half the height of the pavers to measure the final height of your patio.

Step 2 . Add sand over the entire area, and spread it out using a rake until it is approximately an inch thick. This sand bed will become the cushion for your cobblestones.

Step 3. Start laying your cobblestone pavers. The way you lay them will depend on the shape of your cobblestones: some are straight, some are round, while even others come in fanned-out designs. The straight ones are, obviously, the most straightforward: starting at one end, lay the cobblestones on the sand forming straight rows all the way to the other end of your space. Use wire snips in removing the two smaller cobbles on each end of the mat of pavers, making sure they fit together. When you reach the end of each row, keep the smaller pavers on the mat, serving as a straight edge.

Step 4. Depending on where you lay the cobbles, you might need to compact them. For concrete, you will not need to do this step; for base rock, spray the cobbles lightly with water, and use a compactor to push them down part way into the base rock, making sure not to push them down all the way.

Step 5. Prepare your grout depending on instructions, and pour it into a wheelbarrow that you have previously soaked down: this will keep the grout from sticking to your wheelbarrow. Spread the grout using a foam squeegee held at the end of a broom handle to fill in all the gaps between the cobblestones. When you have gone over the entire area, go over them again using a different squeegee to remove the grout off the top of the pavers. After that, use a broom with a stiff bristle to remove any grout remnants. Leave your new patio to dry for at least five hours before you walk on it, and after that you can now enjoy your new cobblestone patio!

Step 1. Plan the cuts and make them. Planning is important, as you will definitely want the replacement to look as natural as possible. This includes cutting out the damaged parts of the plank as cleanly as possible. You can do this by cutting out the section between one or two spacings between the joists. First, find the damaged portion between two joists, and determine which cut will look more natural. With your eye protection in place, use a framing square to guide the edge of your jigsaw, and cut the damaged portion out. Do the same for the other edge of the damaged plank, and remove that section of the deck board.

Step 2. Now that you have removed the damaged plank, you can now install the supports at both ends of the opening for the new board. Cut two sections measuring 12 inches in length from your 2 x 4 pieces of lumber using a circular saw. These will function as your support blocks. Place one of these support blocks right in the center beneath the opening by one of the joists; be sure to pull it tightly against the underside of the boards. Nail the block to the underside face of the joist using two 3-inch spiral shank galvanized nails. Do the same for the other side of the opening, nailing the second block to the face of the other joist.

Step 3. With your support blocks fastened securely, installing the new plank comes next. Cut the new plank to the right length, ensuring that you make a right angle on all ends. Check the grain pattern on the new plank, and place it with the bark side down, with the grain pattern rings curving upward, as this will help you avoid cupping as the plank succumbs to wear and tear. For deck materials that have not been pressure-treated, and are not redwood or cedar, treat the wood with a preservative before installation. Then, make pilot holes with your drill on the new plank right into the support structure; fasten the plank using 3-inch galvanized deck screws or nails. Once you have them set in place, you can now grab a deck chair and enjoy the rest of the day in your newly-repaired deck!

Step 1. Before you purchase your insulation material, measure your attic, making careful note of measurements between the joists. This ensures that you buy the correct width of materials. In the absence of a perfect match, order the closest size and be ready to trim the insulation material using a utility knife. You may find the suggested R-value that is best for your area when you know what to ask at the hardware store. For exterior walls, the minimum is usually R-19, but be willing to ask your local store.

Step 2. Be properly geared for the task, prior to unwrapping your insulation rolls. Wearing long pants, long-sleeved shirts, socks, and shoes will ensure you do not suffer from the itchiness of insulation fibers: these are typically described as feeling like little slivers embedded into the skin. Also wear a face mask and gloves to avoid inhaling the insulation fibers.

Step 3. Cut the insulation according to your measurements of the areas between the joists, beginning on one end of the attic at an exterior wall, moving towards the entry. The material is typically spongy, so press on it firmly to make accurate cuts.

Step 4. Set the cut insulation piece gently into the space, giving it a tap with your hands. The insulation will fall into place without requiring nails, staples, or any other way of fastening.

Step 5. Be sure to leave at least a 3-inch gap between the insulation and electrical boxes, lights and fixtures. If you need to ensure that the fibers do not float towards these items, you might want to frame the insulation pieces with cuts of 2 x 4 lumber.

Step 6. You may opt to cover the first insulation layer with another layer, but generally, it is not that necessary.

Step 7. After you are done with the task, be sure to wash with cold water to flush out any fibers that may have stuck onto your body. By all means, avoid warm showers, as hot water tends to open up your pores, giving the fibers an opportunity to get lodged in them.

Step 1. Determine what kind of instruments will be used, as well as which part of the garage each one will be set up. If you already have a drum set in your garage, that should give you a general idea of how the setup will look. If you are unsure, do not hesitate to ask your teen.

Step 2. Cover all the walls with sound proofing materials. Egg trays are a very affordable choice for sound proofing, although some experts question whether they make any difference in keeping the sound in. A next choice would be to buy Styrofoam panels or a thick, heavy foam. You can typically get these for a low cost at factory outlets, as you can buy extra pieces from other people’s cut-ups. But the best choice by far would be to invest in acoustic boards. While these may be a bit more expensive, if you intend to keep the garage studio for a while, it would turn out to be a good investment.

Step 3. Drums are typically the loudest instrument in any band. Other instruments will generally be plugged into amplifiers, whose volumes can be easily turned down, but drums will have to played really softly or you will need to do something to keep the sound in. many experts swear by drum shields, although buying a drum shield may set you back a bit too much. Instead, you can purchase acrylic sheets joined together with hinges. A good size would be between four to six pieces of 2 feet wide panels, with height ranging from 4 to 6 feet. What the panels do is to bounce back the sound of the drums; as such, make sure you also attach acoustic boards all across the wall behind the drummer.

Step 4. Finally, do a quick check of the items left in the garage music studio. If you find many items made of a wide expanse of metal, try to transfer them to another room, the attic or the basement, maybe, as the material may cause the sound to reverberate, creating greater noise than you would like.

Step 1. Gather the materials you will need for the project: a hammer, a pry bar, measuring tape, a hand drill, and nails or screws to set the new threshold in place. Making sure you have everything at hand will ensure you save time, especially since you will be putting your home at risk if you do not finish installing the new threshold, and consequently, the new door, before sundown. As such it is best to start work early in the day.

Step 2. For thresholds that are not inserted under the doorframe, use the pry bar to loosen it and then lift it out. For those that are attached under the doorframe, first remove the nails; then use the hammer to bang against the threshold from underneath the doorframe. Alternatively, you can cut the threshold into half and bang it out of place.

Step 3. Clean up the dust and sawdust as well as other debris. Make measurements of your new door opening, and trim your new threshold according to the measurements. If your old threshold was flat and you plan to use a new threshold with a sloping or rising surface, it might require trimming the doorstop or the doorway. This extra task will give you room for the new shape of the threshold. Of course, it also takes much more time, but in the end, the finished work will show you it was worth the time and effort you spent trimming the doorstop or doorway.

Step 4. Use your hand drill to make holes on the threshold before you nail it into place. This is because thresholds are mostly constructed of hard wood, making it extremely difficult to nail through it. This pre-drilling process makes sure you get your nails through the threshold with no trouble.

Step 5. Set the new threshold into place, checking to see it is lined up properly. Nail it into place with screws or nails that are at least one or two inches longer than the thickness of the wood on the threshold.

Step 6. Sand your new threshold using fine grit sandpaper and proceed with your choice of finishing, whether you plan to varnish, stain, or paint the threshold. This gives your work that finished and highly professional look.