Adding a patio extension to an existing porch is a great idea for making a house look more attractive and inviting. But do you know that it is something that you can actually make yourself, without needing to hire professionals? Of course, some handyman skill would come in handy, and you will need to take perhaps two days for every 9-foot-square area, to finish the task. Before you even begin, be sure to choose the site for your patio carefully, finding an area that is well-drained and relatively level, with slopes facing away from your house.

Step 1. To make a patio as a grid of concrete units, preferably measuring 3 feet square, Sketch the area of your yard and draw a plan for the patio in increments of 3-foot-square units. Plan on your design and outline the area for the patio on the target site using string tied onto stakes to have an idea how it will look, as well as to mark the area. Be sure to make accurate measurements, and keeping a right angle at the corners of the stakes.

Step 2. Excavate about 7 inches off the entire area you have marked out: 3 inches will be for the gravel base while the remaining 4 inches will be for the concrete. Try to keep the dig-out vertical, with the bottom as level as you possibly can; fill the excavated area with gravel up to 3 inches thick, and run a rake to level out the gravel.

Step 3. Make the frame for your patio using 2 x 4 lumber that has been pressure-treated and ground-contact. The treated wood is necessary so the frame will not rot; you may also opt to build the frame out of 2 x 4 redwood or cedar stock. Butt the corners of the 2 x 4s together to form the outside of the frame; then add dividers to make the grids, measuring 3 x 3 feet. Be sure the top edges of all the wood pieces are flush, as they will form part of the finished patio. Use 8-penny galvanized common nails, with at least two nails used through each joint, and confirm the strength of the joints using a carpenter’s square.

Step 4. Drive stakes measuring 12 inches around the frame, with one at each corner and every grid joint. The stakes may be cut from 1 x 3 lumber that has also been pressure-treated and ground-contact, or 1 x 3 redwood or cedar. Be sure you drive the stake carefully, with the frame held vertical, and pound the stake end well below the top edge of the frame.

Step 5. Check the slope of the frame, making sure the patio will slope about a quarter of inch per 12 feet distance from the house. To adjust, rake the gravel in the area until it meets the required angle.

Step 6. The next step will be to pour the concrete. If you live in an area that has cold winters, be sure to use machine-mixed concrete. For warmer areas year-round, hand-mixed may suffice. Before you start mixing, soak down the gravel base using a garden hose set to fie spray, and put 2-inch masking tape all around the top edges of the frame.

Step 7. Pour the concrete into the patio frame by section, using a shovel to get rid of air holes in the concrete. Pour it until it looks slightly overfilled. Level the surface of the concrete by pulling a 6-foot long 2 x 4 in a zigzag across the wet cement.