Walls & Floors Category
Among the different options for flooring, vinyl floor tiles are among the easiest to install. As such, you will hardly ever require the help of a professional, as opposed to installing ceramic tiles or carpet that might require a bit more expertise. If your home currently has vinyl floor tiles and you would like to change the color or design, have no fear, as you will likely be able to do it on your own at no added expense.
Step 1. Gather all the materials you need ready before you begin. This will save you precious time as well as energy, as it means you will be free from having to do things over. The items you will need include your new vinyl tiles, a heat iron or heat gun, tile adhesive, a putty knife, a notched trowel, rags, mineral spirits, and a rolling pin.
Step 2. In order to remove the old tiles, use the heat gun to soften the adhesive that attaches the tiles to your floor. Be careful not to melt the vinyl. Lift the tiles you want to remove with the putty knife. You can do this by starting at the corner of each tile and working your way towards the center.
Step 3. When you have removed all the vinyl tiles you want to replace, rub mineral spirits on the old adhesive on the floor in order to soften it. Then, with a scraper or a putty knife, scrape off the adhesive that has been dissolved by the mineral spirits.
Step 4. Measure the center point of the room; this is where you will install your first square set of vinyl tiles.
Step 5. Use your trowel to apply adhesive to the underside of your new set of vinyl tiles. You can apply them in groups, but be sure not to apply it to too many pieces lest the last few pieces dry up too much before you get to place them on the floor.
Step 6. Install the first four tiles around the center point. Make sure you position the first tile exactly, as it will determine the position of the rest of the tiles. Use the rolling pin to flatten the tile and get ride of air pockets.
Step 7. Use a rag that has been dampened with mineral spirits to wipe away the excess adhesive on the edges of your tile. Make sure you clean it thoroughly, as having any excess adhesive will mean dirt will collect there, and if you do not clean it immediately, you will have more trouble doing it later.
Step 8. Install all the remaining tiles, with the edges left open. To work on the edges, measure the remaining space and cut the needed size of vinyl tile to fit them neatly. When you’re done, you will have a nice border around all the sides of your vinyl tiles, and you will have a new floor!
If you’re tired of the usual plain colored walls, perhaps the more dramatic wall mural is for you. This is typically great for teens’ rooms, or even young adults who have a flair for the unique and the artistic. You can even make a wall mural even if you are not that artistic in making actual designs yourself, by making use of an overhead projector.
Step 1. Pick the design you want to paint onto your wall. It can be a design you’ve made yourself, one you’ve searched for on the Internet, or even found on a magazine or greeting card.
Step 2. Make a colored copy of the design you want. This will serve as your reference during the actual painting session.
Step 3. Make another copy of the design in black and white. A photocopier can help you to enlarge the design to a size that you can easily make out all the intricate details.
Step 4. A third copy you need is a black-and-white transparency of the design. You will use this on the overhead projector.
Step 5. Turn on your projector and project the design on the wall area you are targeting. Adjust the projector’s distance until you have it right where you want it and exactly how big you want it.
Step 6. Just in case you happen to move the projector, be sure to mark its position on the floor using masking tape. This way, you won’t have to redo everything each time you start again in the morning.
Step 7. Follow the outline of the design using a pencil. For this step, you might need some artistic prowess, although it may not be necessary, as all you are actually doing is tracing. If the light from the projector hurts your eyes, you can don on some sunglasses or shaded goggles.
Step 8. Prepare your acrylic paint in the colors you need based on the color copy of the design. Put each color into its own plastic container. Alternatively, you can use interior latex paint for the larger areas you need to paint.
Step 9. Paint the large areas of the design first, using a wide and flat paintbrush. Note that acrylic paints have the tendency to be a bit transparent, so you might need at least two coats to get the tint you want. Play it by eye and stop adding another coat when you get the desired shade.
Step 10. Shade and blend the colors by adding the next color before the first layer has dried. If you are not sure how to do this, you can ask help from artist friends.
Step 11. Lastly, add details image outlines using a round paintbrush.
Sponge painting is a popular way to get an interesting, textured look on a wall. While the process is relatively simple, it can be more time consuming than a standard paint job, and it typically involves a lot more paint. But the good news is that it’s very easy, and you should be able to do it yourself if you have some time to spare. Here are the steps for sponge painting a wall.
Step 1: For a sponge painting job, you will need a base coat of paint, and a layer of glaze mixed with a second paint color to give the wall the textured effect. When choosing your two layers of paint, you can make sure they go together well by first testing them on a piece of paper. Then, once you have the color for your base layer, apply it to the walls using the standard instructions for painting an interior wall.
Step 2: With your second-layer paint, make a mixture of one part paint to two parts glaze. Put the mixture in a dish, and have a larger container with water.
Step 3: Starting with an upper corner of the wall, dip your sponge (a sea sponge works best) into the water, squeeze the excess water away, and then dip the sponge in your paint-glaze mixture. Start tapping the sponge against the wall, rotating your wrist slightly in between each tap to create the textured look.
Step 4: Work your way diagonally down from the corner, making a wide swath. Every time you need to go back to the water and the glaze, blot the sponge with a clean rag.
Step 5: Keep repeating this process. Every once in a while, step back and take a broader look at your work. If you see any patches that need a few additional taps of the sponge, go back to them. If you see any spots that have too much glaze, you can return later with a layer of glaze mixed with your original paint color.
Step 6: If you want to have a more complex look, wait for the paint to dry and apply a third color using the same process.
Painting the walls inside of a home may seem like a pretty straightforward task—it’s all about getting the paint smoothly on the walls, which isn’t complicated. But if you want to do the best possible job and create a beautiful and balanced paint job that will look great for years, it’s important to utilize the full set of tools that are available. If you’re preparing for a big interior painting project, here are the tools that you’ll want to have.
Rollers: Paint rollers are usually best for painting the large, uninterrupted areas of the wall. They’re easy to use, and they’re one of the most efficient ways to paint. However, they’re usually not the best option for walls with uneven surface or for getting into corners.
Brushes: For more detailed paint work, using paint brushes gives you a more delicate tough. They’re useful for painting things like wainscoting and molding, and they’re great for getting into those edges and corners without slopping paint where you don’t want it to be.
Stepladder: When you paint the upper reaches of the wall (or the ceiling), it can put a strain on your arms. Standing on a stepladder takes a lot of the pressure off.
Extension rods: Extension rods allow you to extend your rollers to enable you to get to difficult-to-reach areas of wall or high ceilings.
Plastic: When painting, it’s a good idea to lay down plastic on the floor to protect against drips and splatters, which will happen no matter how careful you are.
Masking tape: Before you start painting, you’ll want to put up masking tape to protect corners where you don’t want the paint to go. It’s also useful for hooking your floor-protecting plastic to the lower edges of the wall.
Sandpaper: When preparing for your paint job, you might be dealing with old patches of wall paper or areas of the wall that are simply rough. It’s best to paint on a surface that is as smooth as possible, which is where sandpaper comes in. You can use it to smooth out those rough patches and lumps to make the wall surfaces more even.
Strong cleaner: No matter how careful you are, you’ll probably get paint somewhere where you don’t want it to be. Have a strong cleaning solution that is good for cleaning the types of paints you’ll be using.
Many people are reluctant to install underfloor heating systems because the idea can seem a little strange. Having radiant heat coming up through the floorboards may seem like an incomplete heating system, and people who don’t know anything about it may also assume that it presents safety issues. But while underfloor heating is definitely non-traditional, it is catching on as a pleasant and efficient way to heat the home. If you’re considering installing underfloor heating yourself, here’s what you need to know.
All types of floor surfaces
Underfloor heating can work beneath practically any type of floor surface, including hardwood, carpet, linoleum, and even tile. Even if your floor is relatively thick, a good underfloor heating system will permeate that thickness and cause heat to radiate upward through the floor. The only requirement is that you need to be able to get underneath the floor, so it’s usually not a good option for basements or other ground-level floors.
Underfloor heating systems are efficient
It’s easy to assume that underfloor heating systems are inefficient due to the simple fact that they have to heat through all that material. But what many people don’t fully realize is that traditional heating systems are actually quite inefficient in themselves. For example, central heating systems usually only have one or two vents per room, meaning that one portion of the room gets better heat than the rest of the area.
Radiator heat, meanwhile, mainly serves to heat the ceiling, while the lower few feet of the room stays relatively cool. In contrast, because underfloor heating systems start from the ground up, the heat permeates the entire room.
Installation
One thing to keep in mind before installing underfloor heating is that not all home electrical systems are set up to handle the types of circuits that are required. Before you move forward with installing your underfloor heating, talk to an electrician about whether your home can handle it.
Once you’ve confirmed that your home can handle it, the installation process is fairly simple. Underfloor heating systems come ready to install. All you have to do is get under the floor, run the electrical wires that supply the heat, and place the mat that holds the wires in place and helps conduct the heat. After that, all you need to do is cover the setup with insulation and connect the power, and you’re done.
When a home floods or water gradually seeps in underneath the floor, hardwood floors tend to get warped and discolored. This can create an annoying and unsightly patch of floor that makes noise and even presents a trip hazard. Plus, when a floor is warped, it makes it easier for bugs to get in, and it can negatively affect how well the room retains heat or cold air. In any case, it’s best to fix water-damaged hardwood as soon as possible.
Step 1: First, dry the area with towels and floor fans. You can even use a hairdryer to get at tough spots that stay wet. If you can get to the floor below, make sure there is no moisture seeping through the ceiling. If there is, dry from below as well.
Step 2: Next, if the floor has been stained (usually with a whitish discoloration), you’ll want to refinish the wood. Remove the existing finish by sanding it down with a rubber sanding block or an electric sander, and then add new stain to refinish the entire affected area. The goal is to get the wood to look as good as new in terms of color and consistency. It will still look warped for now.
Step 3: Give the stain on the wood plenty of time to dry—at least a full day—and then sweep away any dirt or debris.
Step 4: The process of fixing the warped floor may take a little time, but you’ll get it right eventually. First, assess how serious the warp is. If it’s mainly lifted in one small spot or area, then you might be able to fix it by placing a heavy object on top of it and leaving it for a few days. It sounds simple, but it really can work.
Step 5: For slightly larger warps, try the heavy object method, and also nail down the particularly bad spots with flooring nails, making sure that they go in flush with the surface of the wood.
Step 5: For even larger warps, you can try to straighten them out with larger objects, or you might simply rearrange the room so that the warp is permanently underneath the furniture. If this isn’t an option, then the news is bad: to fix the problem, you’re probably going to need a replacement floor, which can be a long and exhaustive job, usually requiring a contractor.
Building a partition wall can change the character of your home and create new spaces that you are more happy with. They’re often built in unfinished spaces such as attics and basements, but they can be built pretty much anywhere where space permits. First, check your local codes to make sure that building a wall is okay, and then follow these steps to create your partition wall.
Step 1: Mark the ceiling where the new wall will be. Make lines for the edges of the wall’s top plate, which will be the width of a 2×4.
Step 2: Make your top and bottom plates by cutting two 2x4s to match the length of the wall you’re building. Make marks for studs every 16 inches (measured from the center of one stud to the center of the next stud).
Step 3: After making sure that the lines you drew are parallel to the outside wall, nail your top plate into place with 16d nails. Because nailing the wood to the ceiling can be difficult, you might want to get the nails started before you hold the board up to the ceiling.
Step 4: Determine the position of the floor plate and nail it to the grown. If the floor is made of concrete, you’ll need to use a stud driver.
Step 5: Nail the first stud into place against the wall with 16d nails. Then, repeat the process with the rest of the studs, placing them every 16 inches. You can drive nails diagonally or use a metal connector to attach the studs to the ceiling and floor plates.
Step 6: Once you have all the studs in place, it’s time to finish the partition wall with drywall. You probably won’t need to include any insulation, as it’s an internal wall, and of course there are some alternatives to drywall for partition walls. For example, you can use glass or paneling. Or, you could simply finish the studs and get creative with a lighter material such as those that are used in moveable partition walls—such as bamboo, plastic, or a fabric tapestry.
Applying ceramic tile to the wall provides stability and protects the wall and its insides from water leakage. Bath and shower areas without tile on the walls present problems to paint and walls, so it’s advisable to have tile on the walls before you run water in the area. Plus, having tile on the walls is also a great way to give your bathroom or kitchen a little extra visual flair. Here’s what to do.
Step 1: Measure the area of wall that you need to cover in tile and take the measurements to the hardware store. Buy as many tiles as you need to fill the area, plus a few extra.
Step 2: Make sure the underlying wall is in top condition. If there are any holes, patch them. Figure out where the studs are and mark them.
Step 3: Apply a backerboard to the wall. Cut it with a utility knife to the correct dimensions, and then attach it to the studs with your drill and some long galvanized screws. Fill the seams between the backerboard and wall with a coat of joint compound.
Step 4: Time to start applying the tiles. Make sure that you use full tiles in areas where they will be most visible and cut tiles where they will be least visible. Lay out a row of tiles on the floor with plastic spacers between them and make sure you have the pattern right
Step 5: Mark the starting point on your wall and use a level to draw a straight vertical line to this point. This will show you where to place the first row of tile.
Step 6: Use a trowel to scoop out some adhesive and spread it onto a section of the wall. Place the first tile with a twisting motion, making sure it is flush with the vertical line you drew. Tap it with a 2×4 to lock it firmly into place.
Step 7: Continue the same process for the rest of the wall, using your tile spacers to leave room for the grout.
Step 8: When the tiles have been given time to set, add the grout. Grout all the seams between tiles, but avoid the spaces around the rim of the bathtub, as these will be filled with caulk.
Step 9: Run a line of caulk along the joint between the tub and the tiles. Wipe the surface of the tiles with a damp cloth, and give the whole setup at least a day to dry.
Installing wall-to-wall carpet is a surprisingly difficult task to do yourself, so many people choose to hire contractors for this job. However, if you’re feeling brave and don’t mind investing in some specialized tools (some of which you can rent), then you can take care of it yourself. Here’s a step-by-step guide to installing wall-to-wall carpet.
Step 1: You will need several tools, including a hammer, a stapler, a utility knife, measuring tape, chalk, a seam cutter, tackles strips, a power stretcher, safety glasses, and work gloves.
Step 2: First, remove everything from the room. If there is existing carpet, you’ll need to strip it. Make sure the floor is completely clean and doesn’t have any protrusions such as old nails or staplers.
Step 3: Lay down tackles strips around the edges of the room, leaving gaps for any doorways. It should be about half an inch from the wall, and the tacks should face the wall.
Step 4: Staple the carpet underlay in place. Rather than overlapping the edges, just make sure they are very close together. Cut away any excess that goes over the tackles strips.
Step 5: Take measurements of the room, adding four inches on each side, and purchase your carpet. Cut your carpet to fit the measurements of the room.
Step 6: Bring the carpet into the room and lay it out so that it roughly fits its area. If you’re going to need a second patch of carpet, follow the same process but make the second patch overlap the first by about two inches. To make the two patches join evenly, use a seam cutter to cut through both patches at the same time, and join them with a piece of seaming tape.
Step 7: Hook your carpet to the tackles strips. The best way to do this is to use a knee kicker to force the tackles strip to grab and hold on to the carpet.
Step 8: Use an edge trimmer to cut the carpet along the edges of the wall. Tuck the edge under the baseboard.
Step 9: Use a power carpet stretcher to pull the opposite side of the carpet over its tackles strips, and attach the carpet with your knee kicker. Trim away the extra carpet and tuck the edge of the carpet under the baseboard.
Step 10: For the portion of carpet at the doorway, install a door edge to hold it in place.
Among DIY beginners, a common mistake is assuming that applying a couple of coats of paint to a wall is sufficient. But the reality is that if a wall is not prepared with a good primer, even several coats of paint may not be enough to adequately cover the surface of the wall. Even when the paint job looks complete, having no primer can lead to problems as the paint job ages. Here are the main reasons to prime before painting.
1. Creating a smooth canvass: Primer makes the surface smooth, which provides a nice surface for the first coat of paint. It also seals the surface, making the paint much easier to apply and facilitating even absorption of color along the surface of the wall.
2. Color changes: Primer makes it easier to make dramatic color changes on a wall. Even when the old color is dramatically different from the new one, having a layer of primer creates a seal that makes the old color easier to paint over. For this purpose, heavier-duty primers are usually the best choice.
3. Better adherence: Primer is designed to make paint stay on the wall better, so that it doesn’t streak or run during the drying process. It seals up the pores while also making slick areas easier to paint, which prevents streaking and eventual flaking of your layers of new paint.
4. Consistency: Using a primer makes your paint job more uniform and gives it a consistent look. Without primer, paint jobs can look patchy, streaky, and uneven. You don’t want to be stuck with a shoddy paint job, so take the extra time to apply a layer of primer first.
5. Priming seals in problem patches: If there are any stains, water damage, or patches of mold on the wall, priming seals these things in so that they don’t seep out through your new layer of paint. Without a primer, things like mold and stains can eventually rear their ugly heads on the surface of even a double-layer paint job.
