Plumbing Category
Most sewage pipes are made of hard plastic, either PVC or ABS. While these types of material don’t easily wear out, they can get damaged over time especially through tremors brought about by passing vehicles or weights place above the ground where they are located. A broken sewage pipe needs immediate fixing, as it can pose as a major health hazard not only to your household but to the people living around your area. Fixing a broken sewage pipe is no easy task at all, but once you get to the root of the problem, the rest of the job should be easy. Before you engage yourself with the repair, make sure you wear special clothing especially gloves and a mask as the job could be really messy.
Step 1. Locate the area of your sewage pipe that has been damaged. If the damaged area is located underneath concrete cement, you will need to break the floor using either a sledgehammer or a jackhammer, depending on the thickness of the concrete. If the pipe is underneath soil, all you need to do is simply dig around the trench until the pipe is exposed. Dig carefully so as not to cause potential damage to the rest of the line and make sure you dig enough space around the pipe so that you can work and maneuver in the area more easily.
Step 2. Once the pipe has been completely exposed, remove the broken pieces if there are any and carefully cut the damaged portion using a saw. Use a reciprocal saw for the job, but if there isn’t enough space for it, use a hacksaw instead. Again, be extra careful not to damage the rest of the pipe while removing the damaged piece.
Step 3. Measure the size of the damaged pipe and use it as the basis for the size of the one you’re going to use as replacement. Take a new piece of pipe that’s made of the same material and has the same diameter as the rest of the pipes in your sewage line. Cut a portion of the new pipe to replace the damaged one using a reciprocal saw.
Step 4. With the replacement pipe set aside, attach a coupling on each end of the two pipes where you are going to set up the new pipe. Make sure the couplings are properly inserted before attaching the new pipe.
Step 5. Next, get the replacement pipe and lay it between the two ends of the cut pipes where it should be positioned. Insert each side of the new pipe into the couplings attached to the cut pipes. Using a screwdriver, tighten the clamps for each coupling.
Step 6. Pour some water into the drain to run through the pipes and observe what happens. Check each end of the replacement pipe for leaks. If you find that the new pipe is leaking, try to see if the clamps need more tightening and act accordingly.
Soldering copper pipe is a relatively easy task, but it’s a good idea to practice before you get too deeply involved in a plumbing task that requires some soldering. You can practice on some old scraps of copper pipe or even some cheap fittings that you get from the store. When you have copper pipe soldering as part of a larger plumbing project, here are the steps to follow.
Step 1: Cut the pipe to the length that you need. You will need a plumper’s pipe cutter or a hacksaw to do this. The plumber’s pip cutter usually does a neater job.
Step 2: Clean the inside of the fitting with a round wire brush and wipe down the end with an emery cloth. Making sure the fitting is clean will ensure that the seal is strong.
Step 3: Apply a layer of lead-free flux (soldering paste) to the end of the pipe with a flux brush. It should cover the one inch at the end of the pipe. Then, insert the pipe into the fitting and twist it slightly to help spread the flux.
Step 4: You will need about 8 to 10 inches of solder wire to solder a standard-sized copper pipe to a fitting. Unwind this length of wire and bend the two inches at the end to a 90-degree angle.
Step 5: To heat the fitting, hold the torch up to the joint and keep it there for about 4 to 5 seconds, or until the flux begins to make an audible sizzling sound.
Step 6: Move the flame to the lower end of the fitting and touch the solder to the pipe. If the solder begins to melt, then the pipe and fitting are hot enough.
Step 7: When the solder melts upon contact with the pipe, then you know you have it hot enough. Working quickly, take the flame away and melt about half an inch of solder into the joint. The melted solder will naturally be drawn into the joint, making an airtight fitting.
Step 8: After you’ve soldered around the entire joint, wait for the pipe to cool enough to touch it (but not so much that the solder hardens), and then wipe away the solder. Once the pipe has cooled completely, check the water and watch closely for leaks. If you do see a leak, you can wait for the water to drain through and then reheat the joint. IF that doesn’t work, go through the soldering process again from the beginning.
As far as plumbing fixtures go, showerheads are relatively cheap, and they’re also very easy to take out and install. That’s why, when showerheads stop functioning properly, many people simply throw them out and replace them with new ones. But if you have a showerhead that you love or you just don’t feel like spending the money on a new one, you might want to try cleaning your showerhead before replacing it entirely. Fortunately, it’s a very easy process. Here’s what to do.
Step 1: Wait until you’re done using the shower for the day, and then unscrew the showerhead from the fixture and lay it on a towel on a smooth surface. Disassemble all the parts. If you think you’re going to have trouble putting it back together, then before you do anything further, lay all the parts out in an orderly configuration that will help you remember where they go, and take a photograph.
Step 2: Fill a small bucket with a mixture of two parts water and one part white vinegar, and immerse the parts of the showerhead in the mixture. Let them soak overnight.
Step 3: After soaking the parts overnight, lay them out on the toweled surface and examine them closely. You may see mineral deposits on some of the internal parts. If so, clean them with a wire brush. If the showerhead has one of those small metal disks that has little holes for the water to travel through, use a straightened paper clip to clear out any mineral deposits in the holes. Also examine the other parts closely for stains or mildew, and use a cleaning solution to get rid of them.
Step 4: After all your cleaning is done, carefully reassemble the showerhead, making sure all the parts are facing in the correct direction. Screw the parts together tightly but not so tightly that the material warps.
Step 5: Apply a few layers of plumbers tape the threads of the shower arm, and then screw the showerhead back on. Let it run for a few moments. Ideally, the showerhead will be running as smoothly and thickly as when it was new. If it doesn’t seem to work properly, carefully take it apart and put it back together again. If this doesn’t help fix it, then you might want to consider buying a new one.
Installing a garbage disposal is a pretty straightforward job, but it definitely helps if you have some experience with plumbing and electricity. The electricity issue is especially important, as you’re going to need to have an outlet under the sink so that the disposal gets power. You might want to consider having an electrician take care of the power before installing the disposal yourself. Once you have the power, here’s how to install the disposal.
Step 1: Install the ring that will hold the disposal under the sink. It will comprise a sink flange and a mounting ring, which can be sealed to the opening of the sink with plumbers putty, and there will also be screws that hold it in place.
Step 2: After you have the mounting mechanism in place, it’s time to wire the disposal to the power supply. Before going any further, make sure the power is off the room. Flip the switch in the circuit breaker and use a voltage tester to double check that no electricity is flowing. There should be an electrical cover plate at the bottom of the disposal. Remove this, and connect the power chord to the disposal by hooking like-colored wires together with electrical tape.
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If you have a slow-flushing toilet, there are different things that might be contributing to the problem. In many cases it’s an obstruction either in the piping or around the rim of the toilet bowl, but it may also happen due to parts being worn down or not being installed properly. To fix this problem, first try to get to the bottom of what’s causing it, and then make the fixes. Here’s what to do.
A clog?
First, take a bucket of water and dump it into the bowl. If it takes the water a long time to go down, then there’s likely a clog down the drain, in which case you’ll want to go through the standard procedure for unclogging the toilet. If on the other hand the water goes down slowly, then the problem is elsewhere.
Toilet bowl blockage?
Next, use a mirror to examine the rim of the toilet bowl. You might be surprised by what’s under there. If you see a thick layer of dirt and grime, then it’s time to give it a thorough cleaning with some strong toilet bowl cleaner and a brush. Don’t be afraid to get your hands dirty. Keep checking with your mirror, and keep cleaning until it looks good as new. In the event that the dirt and grime is so thick that it can’t be removed through standard cleaning procedures, try lime, calcium, CLR cleaners, Muriatic acid, and scouring pads to really get at that problem.
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If your toilet flushes perfectly but continues to run much longer than it should, then this signals that it has a defect that needs to be fixed. The last thing you want to do is allow this situation to continue, as a constantly running toilet wastes a lot of water and can eventually lead to a leak or a completely broken toilet. The good news is that these problems are usually relatively easy to fix.
Identify the problem
Familiarize yourself with the inner workings of the toilet. When you flush the toilet, it’s supposed to be a simple process: the chain lifts the flapper to let water into the bowl; as the water lowers, a floating device pulls on a valve to let more water into the tank; as the tank fills, the water from the intake shuts off. This is how it should happen, so try to catch the problem by observing the inside of the tank as you flush.
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If you have an old faucet that you want to replace, this is not one of those jobs where you have to bring in a plumber and pay some large sum to make the fix. In fact, installing a new faucet is so easy that you should be able to do it yourself, even if you only have minimal experience with home improvement and plumbing. In any case, it can’t hurt to try, and if you feel like you are getting in over your head, you can always hire a plumber later.
Step 1: First things first, purchase your new faucet. Make measurements of your existing faucet, and find a new one that matches up.
Step 2: Remove the old faucet. First, shut off the water supply to the room and then open the faucet to let any lingering water drain out. Next, use an adjustable wrench to disconnect the water lines under the sink from the old faucet. These are the lines going up to the faucet, not the one draining down from the sink. After you do this, you’ll have to look closely at your faucet to determine exactly how it’s removed. In most cases, you’ll find screws either underneath the faucet or within removable hot and cold knobs. Unscrew the screws and lift the faucet out.
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Toilet clogs are never fun, and they always seem to happen at the worst times, like when you’re late for something and need to rush out the door, or when you’re having guests over. Fortunately, most toilet clogs can be cleared with a simple plunger, and clogs that require the intervention of a plumber are exceedingly rare. If you’re dealing with a particularly difficult clog, follow these steps to clear it.
Step 1: Obviously, you’ve already flushed the toilet. Otherwise, you wouldn’t have a clog. It’s important not to flush again, as that second flush can be more than enough to cause an overflow. Rather than flushing, back off for a few minutes and give the water some time to drain a little bit. It might not drain at all, but it can’t hurt to try. In the meantime, you might want to put some newspaper around the base of the toilet and put on some rubber gloves.
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If your bathtub has backed up or doesn’t drain as quickly as you would like it to, don’t bother calling a plumber until you’ve done everything you can to try to fix the problem yourself. Unless it’s completely stopped, there’s no need to do anything crazy. For now, just try these solutions, and if they don’t work, you can then think about calling a professional.
Clean below the drain
First, remove the drain cover and shine a flashlight down into the drain. You’ll notice that there’s a criss-cross in the piping a few inches down. This is there in order to prevent things like wedding rings and other small objects from getting lost. It’s good to have it there, but it tends to gather hair and other debris over time. If you see anything caught down there, see if you can reach down and pull it out. If it’s a little bit too far down, use a bent clothes hanger to grab it.
Pull out deeper clogs
If your clog is deeper, you may be able to reach it with that bent clothes hanger. Just probe down into the drain with the hanger until you feel something that may be a blockage. Then, try to hook it and pull it out with your hanger. If the hanger doesn’t suffice, you might want to try a tool that is specially designed for this purpose. There are many good ones that you should be able to find at your hardware store.
Try boiling water
Make a nice, bit pot of boiling water and dump it into the top. Sometimes, the pressure of this hot water will clear clogs that normal water doesn’t get.
Try a plunger
Plug the tub and fill it with about six inches of water. Then, unplug it, wait a few seconds for some water to flow into the drain, place your plunger over the tub opening, and give it a few hard jerks. For extra suction, you might want to stuff a wet cloth into the secondary train that is used to capture overflowing water.
If you go through all of these suggestions and nothing works, then it might be time to call a plumber. You may want to try using chemical drain uncloggers, but these can actually do damage to the pipes, so use them at your own risk.
If you have a shower head that leaks when it’s not in use or shoots out water in strange directions, it’s probably because some of its internal elements have become defective and need to be replaced. Fortunately, this is an easy problem to fix without the aid of a plumber. Here’s what to do.
1. Remove the shower head: You may have to use a wrench to loosen the nut that connects that shower head to the pipe. Some shower heads can be removed by hand simply by twisting.
2. Check the gasket: Take out the black rubber gasket (a black ring of rubber) inside of the shower head and look closely at it. If it seems be falling apart or leaves a black residue on your fingers, then it needs to be replaced. These gaskets can be bought for pennies at the hardware store, but make sure you get the right size. Whether you’re putting the old one back in or replacing it with a new one, push it back into the shower head firmly and make sure it lays flat.
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