Exterior Category
If you have an old concrete patio and an extension made with pavers, with the whole thing looking mismatched, you actually have one more option to make it look deliberate and well-designed: making a cobblestone patio. Still, whether you have design issues to settle or simply like the look of cobblestones on a wide patio where you can relax in the evenings, you can make light of this task with the right tools and knowledge.
Step 1. First, you will have to prepare the base. You will need to do different prep treatments for different surfaces. For concrete portions, you will simply need to pressure-wash the area. For areas that are not concrete, you will need to bring in base rock to make a solid foundation: lay the base rock down so that it rises at least one inch above the concrete, and then use a gas-powered compactor to push it down until it is only very slightly higher than the neighboring concrete. For bare soil, you will need to dig a bit until you have two inches of base; give room for about half the height of the pavers to measure the final height of your patio.
Step 2 . Add sand over the entire area, and spread it out using a rake until it is approximately an inch thick. This sand bed will become the cushion for your cobblestones.
Step 3. Start laying your cobblestone pavers. The way you lay them will depend on the shape of your cobblestones: some are straight, some are round, while even others come in fanned-out designs. The straight ones are, obviously, the most straightforward: starting at one end, lay the cobblestones on the sand forming straight rows all the way to the other end of your space. Use wire snips in removing the two smaller cobbles on each end of the mat of pavers, making sure they fit together. When you reach the end of each row, keep the smaller pavers on the mat, serving as a straight edge.
Step 4. Depending on where you lay the cobbles, you might need to compact them. For concrete, you will not need to do this step; for base rock, spray the cobbles lightly with water, and use a compactor to push them down part way into the base rock, making sure not to push them down all the way.
Step 5. Prepare your grout depending on instructions, and pour it into a wheelbarrow that you have previously soaked down: this will keep the grout from sticking to your wheelbarrow. Spread the grout using a foam squeegee held at the end of a broom handle to fill in all the gaps between the cobblestones. When you have gone over the entire area, go over them again using a different squeegee to remove the grout off the top of the pavers. After that, use a broom with a stiff bristle to remove any grout remnants. Leave your new patio to dry for at least five hours before you walk on it, and after that you can now enjoy your new cobblestone patio!
A natural wood deck is an attractive as well as relaxing addition to any home. But, wood deck naturally succumbs to wear and tear over the years, especially with changing weather conditions every so often, with heat and rain beating down on it. What happens when a plank or board on the deck gets damaged or turns rotten? You can actually replace it by yourself without requiring the help of a professional. For this project, with difficulty level deemed just right for the slightly-experienced handyman, you will need a jigsaw, a circular saw, a power drill, a framing square, 3-inch deck nails or screws, a tape measure, and eye protection.
Step 1. Plan the cuts and make them. Planning is important, as you will definitely want the replacement to look as natural as possible. This includes cutting out the damaged parts of the plank as cleanly as possible. You can do this by cutting out the section between one or two spacings between the joists. First, find the damaged portion between two joists, and determine which cut will look more natural. With your eye protection in place, use a framing square to guide the edge of your jigsaw, and cut the damaged portion out. Do the same for the other edge of the damaged plank, and remove that section of the deck board.
Step 2. Now that you have removed the damaged plank, you can now install the supports at both ends of the opening for the new board. Cut two sections measuring 12 inches in length from your 2 x 4 pieces of lumber using a circular saw. These will function as your support blocks. Place one of these support blocks right in the center beneath the opening by one of the joists; be sure to pull it tightly against the underside of the boards. Nail the block to the underside face of the joist using two 3-inch spiral shank galvanized nails. Do the same for the other side of the opening, nailing the second block to the face of the other joist.
Step 3. With your support blocks fastened securely, installing the new plank comes next. Cut the new plank to the right length, ensuring that you make a right angle on all ends. Check the grain pattern on the new plank, and place it with the bark side down, with the grain pattern rings curving upward, as this will help you avoid cupping as the plank succumbs to wear and tear. For deck materials that have not been pressure-treated, and are not redwood or cedar, treat the wood with a preservative before installation. Then, make pilot holes with your drill on the new plank right into the support structure; fasten the plank using 3-inch galvanized deck screws or nails. Once you have them set in place, you can now grab a deck chair and enjoy the rest of the day in your newly-repaired deck!
Adding a patio extension to an existing porch is a great idea for making a house look more attractive and inviting. But do you know that it is something that you can actually make yourself, without needing to hire professionals? Of course, some handyman skill would come in handy, and you will need to take perhaps two days for every 9-foot-square area, to finish the task. Before you even begin, be sure to choose the site for your patio carefully, finding an area that is well-drained and relatively level, with slopes facing away from your house.
Step 1. To make a patio as a grid of concrete units, preferably measuring 3 feet square, Sketch the area of your yard and draw a plan for the patio in increments of 3-foot-square units. Plan on your design and outline the area for the patio on the target site using string tied onto stakes to have an idea how it will look, as well as to mark the area. Be sure to make accurate measurements, and keeping a right angle at the corners of the stakes.
Step 2. Excavate about 7 inches off the entire area you have marked out: 3 inches will be for the gravel base while the remaining 4 inches will be for the concrete. Try to keep the dig-out vertical, with the bottom as level as you possibly can; fill the excavated area with gravel up to 3 inches thick, and run a rake to level out the gravel.
Step 3. Make the frame for your patio using 2 x 4 lumber that has been pressure-treated and ground-contact. The treated wood is necessary so the frame will not rot; you may also opt to build the frame out of 2 x 4 redwood or cedar stock. Butt the corners of the 2 x 4s together to form the outside of the frame; then add dividers to make the grids, measuring 3 x 3 feet. Be sure the top edges of all the wood pieces are flush, as they will form part of the finished patio. Use 8-penny galvanized common nails, with at least two nails used through each joint, and confirm the strength of the joints using a carpenter’s square.
Step 4. Drive stakes measuring 12 inches around the frame, with one at each corner and every grid joint. The stakes may be cut from 1 x 3 lumber that has also been pressure-treated and ground-contact, or 1 x 3 redwood or cedar. Be sure you drive the stake carefully, with the frame held vertical, and pound the stake end well below the top edge of the frame.
Step 5. Check the slope of the frame, making sure the patio will slope about a quarter of inch per 12 feet distance from the house. To adjust, rake the gravel in the area until it meets the required angle.
Step 6. The next step will be to pour the concrete. If you live in an area that has cold winters, be sure to use machine-mixed concrete. For warmer areas year-round, hand-mixed may suffice. Before you start mixing, soak down the gravel base using a garden hose set to fie spray, and put 2-inch masking tape all around the top edges of the frame.
Step 7. Pour the concrete into the patio frame by section, using a shovel to get rid of air holes in the concrete. Pour it until it looks slightly overfilled. Level the surface of the concrete by pulling a 6-foot long 2 x 4 in a zigzag across the wet cement.
If you notice a leak in your roof, you may not have to worry about replacing the entire roof, as many roofs develop leaks many years before you actually need to replace the entire thing. These leaks typically come about by damage to the area, perhaps caused by missing shingles or cracked ones, or perhaps blistering or cracking on a flat roof. Of course, what makes roof repair a bit more complicated is the problem of locating where the leak comes from. Understandably, working on a roof is quite dangerous; as such, you must take the necessary precautions to avoid serious injury.
Before you begin, take note of the following safety precautions: be sure to work on a day that is totally sunny, and make sure the roof is totally dry to avoid slips and falls; also, make use of safety ropes to prevent falls; if you are working on a steep roof, utilize a ladder framework for secure anchoring; use shoes with rubber soles to give you maximum traction; be wary of power lines while working on your roof. With these in mind, you can now proceed with the following steps:
Step 1. Check the shingles on the roof to see if any are curled, damaged, or missing. Check the place where two pieces meet as well as around each vent or chimney if you can find any breaks in the caulking or flashing, as well as for gaps in the roof cement lines. If you cannot locate anything wrong with the shingles or any flashing in the area of the leak, it is a signal to call in a professional roofer, as it likely means there is not enough flashing, or possibly the shingles may have deteriorated.
Step 2. For damages found on the shingles, work on the curled up shingles first. Reattach curled-back shingles using either tube compounds to be used with a caulking gun, or asphalt roof cement. As you work in warm weather, pull the curled shingle into a straightened form; if you are working in cooler weather, it might not be as simple, as the shingle tends to become brittle. In this case, soften the curled shingle first with a propane torch attached with a nozzle designed to spread the flame. Hold the flame onto the curled edges, making it warm for it to soften but be sure not to heat it too much or else it will catch fire. From that point on, you can straighten out the shingle edges, and reattach it using a generous helping of roof cement on the bottom.
Step 3. If you find rotten, missing, or torn shingles, you will have to replace them with new pieces. Rotten shingles include those that can lift right off your roof. In an emergency, you can cut patches from sheet copper or aluminum. Lift the edges of shingles surrounding the one you intend to replace, and remove the nails carefully using a pry bar. Then, slide the old shingle out. Slightly round off the back corners of a new shingle using a utility knife, and slide the piece into the back, aligning its front edge with the shingles on its side. Fasten the top of the new shingle by driving galvanized roofing nails through the corners, and apply roof cement on the nail heads.
Perhaps you think that painting the interior of your house is something that you can do yourself, while the exterior would require the services of a professional. Of course, there is some degree of truth in that, as the exterior typically requires much more finishing in order to give the best looks, whereas interior walls are likely already smooth enough for repainting. Also, exterior paint needs to stand up to the daily wear and tear of the weather. But with the proper time and effort spent for painting the exterior of your house, you can still achieve the looks of a professional paint job. Remember, preparing the surfaces properly means that the paint will last longer, and the overall look will also be visibly better. Surely, it will take you longer to prepare the different surfaces compared to someone who is experienced with it, but if you are up for the fun, about 2-5 hours can be allocated for the various pre-paint tasks.
Step 1. There are a variety of pre-paint tasks depending on the house. These generally include the following things for you to do: first, remove the shutters if you prefer; fill up holes in the eaves or wood trim using wood fillers; sand the rough and weathered paint off from existing eaves and trim; cover all air conditioning units that protrude out the exterior wall; go through the whole exterior to get rid of all wasps’ nests or spider webs; glaze the windows; clean the surfaces you will be painting; and clear shrubs or dirt away from the base of your house.
Step 2. After you clean the wooden surfaces, sand the wood eaves, trim and moldings with rough-grit 40- to 60-grit sandpaper. If you have access to a disc sander, this will make the task go faster. When you remove the old paint, be sure to remove all the rough edges, even if you cannot get rid of all the paint. This will ensure that the new coat of paint will stick properly. If you require paint removal for some areas, use paint thinner to dissolve the old paint and then wipe or wash it off, making sure you wear safety gloves as you do so.
Step 3. With an old paintbrush, sweep the wood particles and dust away from the sanded surfaces. This will ensure that the wood surfaces are all smooth and allow the paint to adhere properly. Apply primer to the wood surfaces for optimum results; semi-enamel exterior latex paint will then be a good choice for the final coat, as this resists weather.
Step 4. Make sure that you properly prepare all the exterior surfaces of your house. This includes the body, the trim, the windows, and the doors. Apply the same sanding technique to all these components, and subsequently clean off the dust and wood particles.
The thought of fixing chips on walls can be very intimidating at times, especially when there is more than one problem to deal with. The good thing is that while repairing chips on exterior walls is easier said than done, it is never impossible to fix the problem yourself. There are many DIY products sold in the market today that allows you to deal with both major and minor wall problems without having to call a professional. Damage to walls like cracks or chips can be caused by several different factors, but most of the time by impact either from moving furniture or heavy equipments. Whatever the cause of the damage, it is reassuring enough that such problem can be easily dealt with. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you:
Step 1. Prepare all the needed materials first before beginning your repair. You will need some filling products, a filler knife, a putty knife for scraping, and some cleaning rags. Ideally, an exterior wall that is damaged should be repaired entirely especially if you are going to perform a repainting job as well. However, if you have no intention of repainting the entire wall, you can simply patch up areas that have been damaged. Before working on the wall, make sure to cover the floor with rags or old newspaper to protect against potential damage. Cover all other furniture as well.
Step 2. Using your putty knife, begin by removing the plaster around the damaged area. This will allow a good base for your filler later on. If the chips are small, you can widen them just enough for the filler to hold. Clean the area thoroughly using a damp cloth. Make sure you get rid of dirt and debris completely or your filler won’t hold onto the wall effectively.
Step 3. Prepare your filler and apply it to the chip using your filler knife. See to it that you fill all the chip holes completely, overlapping the existing coat. Wait for the filler to dry and check whether it has thoroughly covered the hole or not. If you still find some gaps, fill them again as necessary. Remember to use heavier filler products for larger chips or holes.
Step 4. Allow the filler to dry overnight and apply resin to the area. It should be easy to apply and enough to prevent the gaps from opening. Do not spread the resin over the area but only around the edges. Allow the resin to dry and coat again if necessary.
Step 5. When the coating has completely dried, sand the surface in the surrounding area until it is smooth and wipe off dust before applying a final coat.
Step 6. If you are to paint only the part that has been damaged, see to it that you match the color with that of the wall. On the other hand, there shouldn’t be no problem if you intend to repaint the entire wall.
If you have a rough patch in your yard that you want to cover with grass or simply want to start from scratch with a troublesome area, you might find that planting new grass is actually a little more challenging than many people assume. Not only is it a delicate process in which you have to take into account many different factors, but it’s also a long process that requires regular monitoring over a period of weeks or even months. With this in mind, here’s how to plant a new layer of grass from seed.
Step 1: Select what type of grass you would like to grow in your yard, and choose the appropriate seed. Before making your purchase, it’s a good idea to ask around or go online to find out what types of grass people have had results with in your area. If you have a neighbor with a particularly beautiful lawn, you can even ask them directly what they use.
Step 2: If you’re going to be replanting an area where there is some sparse existing grass, first cut the grass as short as possible, remove any debris or dead grass from the area, and turn over the soil. If you’re planting on an area that doesn’t have any existing grass, first remove any debris (stones, sticks, etc.) from the area, break up any large soil clumps, and make the area as level as possible. In either case, prepare the area with a gentle grass fertilizer.
Step 3: For large areas of grass, you can use a mechanical seeder to evenly spread the seed over the lawn. If it’s a smaller patch, you can easily do it by hand, making sure to spread the seed evenly, with about 16 seeds per square inch of lawn. Obviously, it’s not easy to measure this, so practice on a small corner of the patch first to get a feel for what it should look like, and then proceed to the rest of the area.
Step 4: Cover the grass seed in about a quarter inch of soil and, if you wish, use some grass seed accelerator to help the growing process along.
Step 5: For the coming days and weeks, make sure the grass bed is always moist but never too wet. Water at least once daily with a gentle sprinkler, being careful not to oversaturate the soil. Once the grass grows in, you can generally water less frequently, especially if you live in a rainy area. The grass should begin to grow in within weeks.
When repairing masonry of any kind, one of the most important things is to make sure that you match the texture and color of the original wall. It’s also crucial to make sure that the seal is tight and fully connected to the adjacent materials. When this is not done properly, a hole or crack in masonry can lead to even more serious problems. There are lots of different issues that can arise with masonry, but here are some of the most common ones.
Fixing a damaged area of stucco
To fix a damaged patch of stucco, first clean the area with a wire brush and get rid of any loose bits of material. Then, fill the hole with premixed stucco using a putty knife. You’ll want to apply two or three layers, allowing each layer to dry in between applications. On the final layer, you can use the end of a broom to make the texture match the surrounding area.
Repairing broken or crumbling mortar joints
To fix a strip of mortar that is falling apart, first use a chisel to completely chip away the mortar in the area. Break up any loose bits and pull them out. Then, run an old screwdriver through the crack to make sure you get rid of any lingering bits. Blow out any remaining dust with a compressed air canister. Wash the joints with a hose.
When the area is still wet from the hose, refill the joints with mortar and scrape away any excess with a trowel. Use a jointing tool to press the mortar in firmly and to give it a stripe to match the surrounding mortar. Let the mortar dry, and then fill in any gaps that appear.
Replacing a brick
To replace a busted brick, first chip away the surrounding mortar with a chisel and then break up the brick. Remove and discard all the pieces as you go along. Brush away any remaining fragments and blow away any dust from the gap. Spray it with water from a hose.
Spread some mortar around all sides of the inside of the hole, and then put it on the sides of the brick. Slide the brick into the hole and scrape away the excess mortar. Once it’s firm, smooth the mortar and shape the joint with a jointer.
If it’s time to repaint the exterior of your home, you have a big job ahead of you. Exterior painting is generally much more difficult than painting the inside, as external paint tends to break down much more quickly, and you usually have to treat the old paint before you can apply a new layer. Before barreling headlong into this project, here are some things that you might want to consider.
1. Can you do it yourself? Doing the job yourself usually saves a lot of money, but it’s also time consuming, and if you don’t have a lot of painting experience, it can be quite difficult. If you don’t trust yourself to do a good job, consider hiring a professional. Otherwise, be ready to devote at least two full weekends to this project.
2. What kind of paint to use? You’ll want to choose a nice exterior paint that is designed to last a long time. Make the extra investment to buy a high-quality paint to ensure that you don’t have to do the job again for a long time.
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If you’ve always dreamed of having a deck but have been reluctant to tackle the huge task, your misgivings are well founded. Building a deck is not for beginners, and most people choose to hire contractors for this project. However, if you are interested in installing a simple ground-level porch in the back of your house, the job becomes a bit easier, and you can do it yourself if you’re willing to invest the time and funds.
A ground-level deck is obviously much simpler than an above-ground deck because it doesn’t have steps, support beams, or railings. In most cases, the job can be done over a couple of weekends, and you’ll probably spend less than $1000 for the parts. Here’s how it works.
Step 1: First, you’re going to remove the building’s trim and attach the ledger, which needs to be hooked by 6d nails through spacers set at two feet apart along its length. Then, you’ll affix the ledger to the house’s rim joist with ½ lag screws tightened with washers.
Step 2: When you have your ledger up, protect it with a 6-inch strip of waterproof membrane folded lengthwise at a 90-degree angle. Attach it with roofing nails.
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