Attic Category
A house that seems to be short on space does not always require a full-fledged construction of an additional wing; sometimes all you have to do is look up! Yes, the attic is one space in nearly every house that is not quite maximized, and converting it into a bedroom will be a great way to expand your living area without needing an actual extension. Of course, you will need to adhere to building code to make sure you do not compromise structural integrity and safety, but if you happen to be handy with power tools and as long as you know the basics of construction, you can easily convert your attic into a spare bedroom. A well-constructed attic bedroom will even raise the overall value of the house should you ever decide to sell, making it a worthy investment.
Step 1. Before you start building, there are some preparatory steps to take: First, be sure you check with the local building authority for the needed papers. Then, confirm that the attic has at least 7 feet height in the top portion of the rafters, although higher is more preferable. Also, check the part where the rafters slope downwards: a minimum of four feet is required to make it usable for living space. While you are there, check the structural integrity of the floor rafters. There should be a minimum of 2 x 4 inch lumber spanned a maximum of 10 feet with no support. The rafters should also sit on centers of 16 inches or less. You can actually consult an engineer to confirm the structural integrity of the space, just to be sure.
Step 2. Re-route all existing attic vents, especially if they will wind up interfering with the new configuration of the space. You can opt for ridge vents, as they are considered a good choice for attic conversion. Also re-route all furnace and plumbing vents, making sure you avoid terminating any of the vents. Along with that, plan the air and heat access to the attic bedroom. Sometimes you may not be able to connect to the existing HVAC system, but you can get around that by installing a small HVAC unit instead, preferably a horizontal one, and creating a vent into the exterior of the house.
Step 3. Build a staircase for the new bedroom. Make sure you allow at most 8 inches for the rise and at least 11 inches for the tread. This keeps you from making a staircase that is too steep or too narrow.
Step 4. Lay down the subfloor: this will extend under the area under which the knee walls run. Unless you want to use the space for cabinets, you may not need to install a subfloor beyond this point. Create a frame for the sidewalls and knee walls, at a minimum of 2 x 4 inch lumber that you set on 16-inch centers. Any exterior sidewall windows should also be installed at this point.
Step 5. Install venting runs, electrical, phone and cable wire, plumbing vents, as well as other mechanical elements into the bedroom. Extend the rafters to a minimum of 5-1/2-inch depth to have room for an R-19 insulation at the minimum.
Step 6. Apply drywall mud and tape on the walls, following sheetrocking. Paint over the walls, and then install the outlet covers and light fixtures. Install the final flooring, window trim, and base trim, and attach all closet doors. Now your attic bedroom is ready to go!
Many homeowners are wondering where their rising electric bills are coming from, without realizing that the answer is, literally, just over their heads. The attic is a place in a home that is typically overlooked, especially in terms or proper installation. Studies show, though, that the proper insulation, such as one done with fiberglass, actually contribute to good savings on electric bills, no matter what climate you live in. This is even more important for places that have cold winters, especially those that undergo a lot of snow during the winter. If you realize that your attic needs to be insulated, you will find the following steps to ease the process for you.
Step 1. Before you purchase your insulation material, measure your attic, making careful note of measurements between the joists. This ensures that you buy the correct width of materials. In the absence of a perfect match, order the closest size and be ready to trim the insulation material using a utility knife. You may find the suggested R-value that is best for your area when you know what to ask at the hardware store. For exterior walls, the minimum is usually R-19, but be willing to ask your local store.
Step 2. Be properly geared for the task, prior to unwrapping your insulation rolls. Wearing long pants, long-sleeved shirts, socks, and shoes will ensure you do not suffer from the itchiness of insulation fibers: these are typically described as feeling like little slivers embedded into the skin. Also wear a face mask and gloves to avoid inhaling the insulation fibers.
Step 3. Cut the insulation according to your measurements of the areas between the joists, beginning on one end of the attic at an exterior wall, moving towards the entry. The material is typically spongy, so press on it firmly to make accurate cuts.
Step 4. Set the cut insulation piece gently into the space, giving it a tap with your hands. The insulation will fall into place without requiring nails, staples, or any other way of fastening.
Step 5. Be sure to leave at least a 3-inch gap between the insulation and electrical boxes, lights and fixtures. If you need to ensure that the fibers do not float towards these items, you might want to frame the insulation pieces with cuts of 2 x 4 lumber.
Step 6. You may opt to cover the first insulation layer with another layer, but generally, it is not that necessary.
Step 7. After you are done with the task, be sure to wash with cold water to flush out any fibers that may have stuck onto your body. By all means, avoid warm showers, as hot water tends to open up your pores, giving the fibers an opportunity to get lodged in them.
